Mt. Pumori Expedition (7,161m) – 35 days

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At a glance

Climbing Route and High Camps

We establish three high camps above the base camp and summit attempt, camp I or advance base camp at 5,700m, campII at 6,200m which is located on a narrow ridge and an ice climb with 35-65 degrees, more 5m. CampIII, 6,850m it is too windy, many crevasses and ice walls way to summit and we use normal route (south east) to ascent the mountain. Our strong & professional high altitude climbing Sherpas will fix ropes as required. Depending on our fitness, we'll be moving up and down the mountain several times, acclimatizing and stocking the higher camps. This expedition is fully supported with all the base camp & high camp services.

TRIP HIGHTLIGHTS

  • Expert & experienced cook and crews
  • Excellent and comfortable camping logistics
  • Medical back up with Oxygen mask set throughout the trip
  • Climb to the mountain without crowds
  • Perfect mountain as pre-expedition to any 8000m mountains
  • Take a change to trek into the world’s famous destination “Everest Base camp”
  • Climb the 7000m peak, technically challenging, with professional and Everest Summiteers Sherpa Guides

Journey 

This challenging climb includes a classical trek into the Solu-Khumbu region begins with a spectacular mountain flight to Lukla & continually trekking along the Dudh-Kosi ("MilkRiver"). After crossing the Namche Bazar”Sherpa headquater/Capital” we will continue on to Tengboche with its beautiful Buddhist monastery.

This small village is considered be the spiritual center of the Khumbu area. We will gradually make our ascent to Pheruche (4,250m), Lobuche (4,910m) and finally along the glacial moraine to base camp of Mt.Pomari (5,300m) at the base of Kala Pattar (5,550m). Now you will have the option of a sunset or sunrise climb to the 5,550m' summit of Kala Pathar for a panoramic view of some of the world's

highest mountains including Everest at 29,028 ft. After successfully completing 18/19 days of climbing on technically challenging peak, we take three days return trek to Lukla via Pangbouche, Namche and finally fly for KTM. 

Description

Mt. Pomari (7,161m), a brilliant white stunning peak is one of the premier 7,000m peaks in the Everest region of Nepal. The peak is on the border of Nepal and Tibet right in front of Mt. Everest, where the difference between the two countries is obvious: The arid Tibetan Plateau stretches to the north and west and rise to the south and east. It is ideal for those looking to pursue the 8000m peaks, or a fantastic climb in its own right. The route follows the Southeast buttress before it traverses to the East Ridge for the remainder of the ascent. Requiring excellent physical endurance, Pumori offers sections of wild exposure, views of Lhotse and Everest, with technical difficulty worthy of any Himalayan alpinist. Pumori is a serious expedition peak designed only for experienced climbers. 

Mt. Pumori Base camp can be reached by taking the Kathmandu – Lukla flight and trekking via Namche Bazaar, Thangboche – Pheriche and Lobuche. Mt. Pumori is 7,161meter high and the ascent starts at 5,300m; which is beside a beautiful small lake from here you can get a beautiful sight of Mt. Everest and Kalapthar at 5,545m. Pumori has many rocks and mixed climb traverse, steep and exposed to wind narrow ridges, some ice walls and tunnel climb. Pumori is not as easy as other mountains and there are difficult technical parts in this route. Therefore, prior experience and technical mountaineering skill is required. We provide fully guided to success the expedition on this mountain, which suits all kinds of climbers.  

Outline Itinerary

1 Day 01: Arrive in KTM, transfer to hotel and briefing

After you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you will have to go through custom formalities. You will be greeted by our representative who will be anxiously waiting for you with a placard displaying your name in his hand. You will be transferred to the 3-Star category hotel in a private vehicle. Once you get refreshed, you will get briefing regarding the itinerary and you will also be introduced with your crewmembers and other trekkers who are going to join you on the trip. Enjoy welcome dinner in the evening where you can taste authentic Nepali dinner. Stay overnight in a hotel.

2 Day 02: City tour & necessary preparation

In the morning after breakfast, we will organize half day sightseeing tour during which you will be taken on memorable UNESCO Heritage Tour. Tour begins with visit to Nepal’s holiest Pashupatinath Temple Complex and takes us through Nepal’s largest Bouddhanath Stupa and 2500 years old Swoyambhunath Stupa. We will return to hotel in the afternoon and time for shopping of any missing items, packing and getting ready for the trip.

3 Day 03: Flight to Lukla& trek to Phakding (2,610m)40min flight, 3-4hrs trek

We will drive to domestic terminal of Tribhuvan Airport early in the morning and catch a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. We will follow one of the most scenic air routes in the world with panoramic views of glistening mountains to Tenzing Hillary Airport in Lukla. Lukla allows access to Everest Khumbu region. We will assemble the crew and take breakfast before start of Everest3 Passes Trek and Island Peak. Following the stone path through Ghat village, we will reach Phakding village. Visit local monastery. Stay overnight at Phakding.

4 Day 04: Trek to Namche(3,440m)5-6hrs

Leaving Phakding, we will walk along Dudhkoshi River and enter the dense pine forest. We will cross suspension bridges and walk through dispersed houses of Zapute, Benkar and Chumoa to reach Monjo. Monjo allows an entrance to Sagarmatha National Park. We need to go through required national park formalities before we can enter the park. The park is rich in Himalayan herbs, plants, mammals and birds. We will descend to Hillary Bridge existing at the base of hill. After crossing the bridge, we will follow the escalating path towards Namche Bazaar. The path rewards us with views of Thamserku Mountain, Everest, Lhotse and other mountains and peaks. Stay overnight in Namche Bazaar.

5 Day 05: Day hikes - Khumjung, Khunde (3840m)

Namche Bazaar acts as the major trade centre to conduct trade in between locals and neighbouring Tibetans. Namche is also popular as the capital of Sherpa land. It is wise to take rest at Namche on this day. For proper acclimatization with the changing altitude, we can arrange day hike to small Khumjung and Khunde villages. Visit the local monastery and observe the local lifestyle. Head office of National Park, Museum and monasteries are interesting places near Namche. We can get most of the modern facilities including hospital and post office at Namche. Stay overnight in Namche.

6 Day 06: Trek to Tengboche (3,860m) 6hrs

The trail continues along glaciated DudhKoshi River from Namche. We will follow the scenic route with views of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse and other peaks and mountains and enter the forest area. Walking through the colourful rhododendron forest, we can get opportunity to view musk deer and colourful Himalayn birds like Danphe and Munal. We will move further to Sanasa village. The trail branches at Sanasa. We will follow the main trail towards Everest Base Camp. Following the escalating path from Sanasa, we will reach Tengboche. Gate of Tengboche Monastery is open after 3pm. We will visit Tengboche Monastery which is the largest monastery in the region.

7 Day 07: Trek to Pheriche (4,250m)5hrs

Leaving Tengboche, we will enter the birch and rhododendron forest. In couple of hours, we will reach Debuche from where we will lower down to beautiful Chhukung Valley. We will descend to Imja River and follow the raised path to Pangboche. Monastery is Pangboche is believed to be the oldest Monastery in the region. Walking along the Mani walls, we will climb to Pheriche where we will stay overnight.

8 Day 08: Day hikes and acclimatization day

We will take a day of rest at Pheriche. Pheriche is known as the windiest place to live in entire Khumbu area. We can visit health post or Himalayan Rescue Association. There is good facility of accommodation in the farming village of Pheriche.  

9 Day 09: Trek to Lobuche (4,910m) 6hrs

We will follow the escalating trail from Pheriche to Lobuche and arrive at bridge. Crossing the bridge, we will move further to Dughla. Following the ascending path from Dughla, we will reach Khumbu glacier which greets us with scenic views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and other peaks and mountains. We will follow the descending trail from Khumbu glacier to valley of Lobuche where we will stay overnight. 

10 Day 10: Trek to Pumori Base Camp (5,300m) 3-4hrs

Leaving Lobuche, we will take slow walk up the valley and arrive at the end of grassy field. From this point, we will take about half an hour of trek through rocky moraine trail along glacial pond below Khumbu glacier to arrive at Gorakshep. We will enjoy the views of Pumori (7145m),Kalapattar and other peaks and mountains and take slow and long walk to the end of Gorakshep from where the trail to Pumori separates from Everest Base Camp Trek route. Walking through rocks and boulders, we will reach Pumori Base Camp where we will stay overnight.

11 Day 11 to 29: Load ferry, acclimatization, route opening and Summit attempt on Mt.Pumori(7,161m)

After few days of preparation and acclimatization, we will begin our climb to Pumori. Guide will share Pumori climbing strategy with team. He will also provide you with necessary instructions and teach you what to do and how should you call for help if in case of emergency. Once the Sherpas make way and fix cables wherever necessary and set up High camps, we will begin Pumori Climbing.
Base Camp to Advance Base Camp (5700m)
Base Camp is located a little above Gorakshep. Leaving this camp, we will climb over moraine and pass along icy pond to reach Advance Base Camp which is located near the base of Pumori Mountain.
Advance Base Camp to High Camp II (6200m)
Chances of avalanche exist on this section. So, one needs to be cautious. From Advance Camp, we will climb through moraines and snow to Camp II which is located on a narrow ridge. Climbing over 35 to 65 degree slopes, we will reach High Camp II.
High Camp II to High Camp III (6850m)
Leaving High Camp II, we will walk through ice walls and crevasses. We must use fixed ropes and other climbing equipment to conquer these challenges. We will reach High Camp III where we will set our camp.
High Camp III to Pumori Summit (7340m)
We have to face the challenges of heavy wind from Camp III onwards. Leaving Camp III, we will follow the route that continues to the right of huge ice cliff. We will continue climbing through ice section to reach the summit. We can enjoy the views of five highest peaks in the world from the summit of Amadablam. We will descend gradually to the Base Camp.  

12 Day 30: Trek to Pangboche 4-5hrs

After clearing the base camp, we will prepare for return trek. We will follow the descending trail toLobuche and continue walking to Pangboche village where we will visit ancient Monastery. Stay overnight at Pangboche.

13 Day 31: Trek to Namche 5hrs

After following the easy descending trail through rhododendron forest to Dudhkoshi River, we will walk past narrow gorges and once again follow the trail through forest area that is rich in Himalayan wildlife. Once we arrive at Sanasa, we will enjoy the view of Amadablam Mountain. Walking through the forested edge beyond Kyangjuma, we will reach Namche. Enjoy the views of Everest, Tengboche and other peaks and mountains. Stay overnight at Namche.

14 Day 32: Trek to Lukla 6hrs

From Namche, we will lower down to rhododendron forest and walk along Dudhkoshi River to Phakding. Walking past the walled road of Ghat, we will reach Lukla. Stay overnight in Lukla.

15 Day 33: Fly Lukla - Kathmandu & transfer hotel

We will catch an early morning flight from Lukla to Kathmandu. This is rest day. Spend the day as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. We can also arrange for guided sightseeing tour. Alternatively, you can arrange your photo albums and jot down memories in your journal. Stay overnight in a hotel in Kathmandu.

16 Day 34: Kathmandu, extra free day

Spend the day as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. We can also arrange for guided sightseeing tour. Alternatively, you can arrange your photo albums and jot down memories in your journal.

17 Day 35: Int’l departure for home

You will be transferred to the Airport as per your schedule flight for international departure. Safe journey. We hope to see you soon.

Trip Facts

Cost Includes

  • Climbing Royalty fee and all govt. taxes for Mt.Pomari
  • National park/Conservation permit fees
  • 4 nights, 3 star hotel accommodation on single room BB basis
  • All domestic flights with departure taxes, cargo of expedition loads to & from lukla
  • Liaison officer wages, allowances & insurance
  • Expedition Sherpa Guide
  • Climbing support Sherpas on 1:2 ratios
  • Cook (s) and necessary kitchen staffs
  • Required number of porters and yaks to & from Base Camp (BC)
  • All necessary Group climbing hardware gears including fixed ropes
  • All necessary camping and kitchen gears
  • Meals (B/L/D), during trekking and climbing period
  • High altitude food for higher camps
  • Best quality single or twin shared tent with sleeping mattress at Base Camp
  • Tents for higher camps
  • Oxygen with regulator set for medical purpose at BC
  • Gamow bag /PAC for medical purpose
  • A group medical kit
  • Satellite phone for the purpose of emergency calls (personal calls are on payable basis)
  • Walkie-talkie sets
  • High camp stoves and gases (EPI gas with burners)
  • Insurance of climbing Sherpas and local team members
  • All airport/hotel transfers by private vehicles
  • All airport/hotel transfers by private vehicles

Cost Excludes

  • Medical/Personal high risk travel insurance
  • Personal climbing gears
  • Major meals in Kathmandu
  • Cost of personal nature expenses
  • Cost of electronic appliances
  • International air ticket and departure tax
  • Tip to the local staff
  • Cost occurred due to delay and cancellation of flights, extension of trek and climbing period etc.

Videos

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Useful Info

Fitness
Any expedition that goes to 7,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 20km on flat ground in under 2.5 hours and walk with a very light pack for 100km in less than 20 hours on a mixture of flat and hilly terrain. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability. Upper body strength will not be a big factor in this climb, more legs and lungs.

In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 6 to 8 months to prepare yourself as strong candidate. You can go to fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e.10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. However during climbing and acclimatization, there might be little symptoms of altitude illness like mild headache, fatigue etc. but take it as normal and just drink a lot of water (4 – 5 liters) every day. On this trek, youneed to be able to hike 6 – 10 hours over hilly terrain up to 6,000m of altitude with daypack.On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 12 – 14 hours. We will have porters to carry our heavy camping equipment, food and also the climbing gears. 
 
Experience Required
This trip is aimed at the moderately experienced climber and/or very fit athlete wanting to test them at high altitude before attempting the 8000m peak. Suitable experience would be a past climbing trip to one of the 6,000m peak in the Himalayas (i.e. Island Peak 6,160m, Lobuche Peak 6,119m, Mera Peak 6,476m or any other one), or have completed technical mountaineering course and a good level of proficiency with leading rock climbs combined withiceand skiing experiences. If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
 You must have well knowledge about how to play with mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will surely increase the chances of reaching  thesummit and also previous trekking and mountaineering experiences is mandatory butdoesn’t really require any extreme technical experience. 

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Trip Notes

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