Mt. Baruntse Expedition (7,129m) – 39 days

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At a glance

Climbing Route and High Camps 

We'll establish Base Camp just above the five holy lakes "Panch Pokhari" at 5,400m and two higher camps on the mountain. We'll ascend the 6,100m West Col before establishing Camp 1 (6,150m), where the long ridge leading to the summit is clearly visible. We establish our Camp II at the altitude of 6,400m from where we ascent the peak and turn back to Camp I, which takes about 10/11 hours. The climb from CI to CII follows steepening slopes to a small col and takes about 4/5 hours. A tricky step at around 7,000m adds further spice to the climb. The route is generally a straightforward snow and ice climb and not technically demanding. 


  • Expert & experienced cook and crews
  • Medical back up Oxygen with mask set throughout the trip
  • Medical back up Oxygen with mask set throughout the trip
  • Trek & Climb to the area without crowds
  • Perfect mountain as pre-Expedition to any 8000m mountains
  • Trek way out via climbing the view point “AmphuPapcha Pass” (5,846m) and Everest main trail
  • Trek in into Hinku valley, Makalu Barun area
  • Acclimatization and training climb to Mera Peak (6,476m)
  • Climb the 7000m peak, not technically tough challenging, with professional and Everest SummittedSherpa Guides


After preparations in Kathmandu, we'll fly direct to Lukla and begin the trek into the Hinku Valley, enjoying Sherpa country at its finest. The hike-in provides for excellent acclimatization as we head northward through the pristine alpine environment. On the way to Baruntse BC.We slowly make our way south through the terraced fields that line the DuhdKosi to Piuyan and on to Pangum, and continue for 8 days to reach at base camp of Mera Peak/Khare and climbing on Mera Peak starts, 1st night to Mera La, 2nd to High Camp and Summit of the peak and continue descent and walk to next side to KongmaDingma. Trek continue to base camp of Batunse via hunku valley and Sherpas start to carry the loads to the higher camps and acclimatization climbing to the higher camps will also happen simultaneously. On the return way to Lukla, we will trek through a challenging and stunning view point, Amphu Lapcha Pass (5,845m) and goes through the lower part of the Everest region, this will give you chance to see and experience the Sherpas cultures and traditions.  


(An acclimatization trip to Mera Peak (6,476m)

The potential for climbing “East of Everest” was first recognised by members of Shipton’s 1951 Everest Reconnaissance expedition, which made a journey of exploration into the region. Three years later, in 1954, members of Shipton’s 1951 Everest Reconnaissance expedition, including Edmund Hillary and George Lowe, returned to exploit the climbing potential to the full. Although their prime aim was to explore Makalu, in a concerted effort of peak bagging around the upper Barun Glacier, this team made no fewer than 20 first ascents of which Baruntse was the most significant. The first ascent of Baruntse was been made. They climbed the mountain by the South-East Ridge, which will be the line of our ascent.

An ascent on Baruntse (23,390ft / 7,129m) is an adventure for climbers wishing to summit a true Nepal Himalaya peak. This remote expedition into the heart of the Khumbu culminates in a relatively short climb to the summit of this majestic 7,000m peak. Baruntse is among some of the highest peaks of the Himalaya, including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and AmaDablam, and this expedition rewards you with spectacular views throughout. 

Mt. Baruntse expedition trip also encompasses a climb of Mera Peak (6476m/21,246ft) as acclimatistion on the long approach trek to Base Camp and a crossing of the Ambulapcha Pass on the return. 

This trip is an opportunity to experience non- technical climbing at moderate to high altitude, and whilst not being an 8,000 metre peak, the climb incorporates a lot of the components of 8000m peak climbing and can be regarded as a good training peak for higher objectives. In addition to the climbing, the expedition visits a remote part of Nepal with stunning Himalayan views and exciting local culture. 

Outline Itinerary

1 Day 01: A pick up from the International Airport and transfer to Hotel. (1350m)

A pick up from the International Airport and transfer to Hotel. (1350m)

2 Day 02 - 03: Expedition Briefing in Ministry of tourism

Expedition Briefing in Ministry of tourism

3 Day 04 : Fly to Lukla to Chutanga (3500m)

Fly to Lukla to Chutanga (3500m)

4 Day 05 : Chutanga to Chatrabu (4370m)

Chutanga to Chatrabu (4370m)

5 Day 06 : Chatrabu to Kothe (3700m)

Chatrabu to Kothe (3700m)

6 Day 07 : Kothe to Thangna (4336m)

Kothe to Thangna (4336m)

7 Day 08 : Thangna to Khare (5000m)

Thangna to Khare (5000m)

8 Day 09 : Khare Rest for Acclimatization.

Khare Rest for Acclimatization.

9 Day 10 : Khare to over Mera-La (5200m)

Khare to over Mera-La (5200m)

10 Day 11 : Rato Ordar to Chamlang Base Camp (4700m)

Rato Ordar to Chamlang Base Camp (4700m)

11 Day 12 : Chamlang Base Camp to Seto Pokhari (4900m)

Chamlang Base Camp to Seto Pokhari (4900m)

12 Day 13 : Seto Pokhari to Barunse Base Camp (5200m)

Seto Pokhari to Barunse Base Camp (5200m)

13 Day 14 : Settle Baruntse base camp (5400m)

  Settle Baruntse base camp (5400m)

14 Day 15-31 : Climbing period Mt. Baruntse.

Climbing period Mt. Baruntse.

15 Day 32 : Baruntse Base Camp to Seto Pokhari

Baruntse Base Camp to Seto Pokhari

16 Day 33 : Seto Pokhari to Mera La Pass, Khare

Seto Pokhari to Mera La Pass, Khare

17 Day 34 : Khare to Kothey

  Khare to Kothey

18 Day 35 : Kothey to Chutanga

Kothey to Chutanga

19 Day 36 : Chutanga to Lukla (2800m)

Chutanga to Lukla (2800m)

20 Day 37 : Lukla to Kathmandu by flight (1350m)

  Lukla to Kathmandu by flight (1350m)

21 Day 38 : Day Briefing Ministry of Tourism

Day Briefing Ministry of Tourism

22 Day 39 : Final Departure from Kathmandu

Final Departure from Kathmandu

Trip Facts

Cost Includes

  • Climbing Royalty fee and all govt. taxes for Mt.Bruntse
  • Climbing permit fee for Mera Peak
  • National park/Conservation permit fees
  • 4 nights, 3 star hotel accommodation on single room BB basis
  • All internal flights with departure taxes
  • Liaison officer wages, allowances & insurance
  • Expedition Sherpa Guide
  • Climbing support Sherpas on 1:2 ratios
  • Cook (s) and necessary kitchen staffs
  • Require number of porters and yaks to & from Base Camp (BC)
  • All necessary Climbing hardware gears including fixed ropes
  • All necessary camping and kitchen gears
  • Meals (B/L/D), during trekking and climbing period
  • High altitude food for higher camps
  • Best quality single or twin shared tent with sleeping mattress at Base Camp
  • High altitude tents as require
  • Oxygen with regulator set for medical purpose at BC
  • Gamow bag /PAC for medical purpose
  • A group medical kit
  • Satellite phone for emergency call purpose (personal calls on payable basis)
  • Walkie-talkie sets
  • High camps stoves and gases (EPI gas with burners)
  • Insurance of climbing Sherpa and local team members
  • All airport/hotel transfers by private vehicles
  • Celebration dinner

Cost Excludes

  • Medical/Personal high risk travel insurance
  • Personal climbing gears
  • Major meals in Kathmandu
  • Cost of personal nature expenses
  • Cost of electronic appliances
  • International air ticket and departure tax
  • Tip to the local staff
  • Cost occurred due to delay and cancellation of flights, extension of trek and climbing period etc.


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Useful Info

Any expedition that goes to 7,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 20km on flat ground in under 2.5 hours and walk with a very light pack for 100km in less than 20 hours on a mixture of flat and hilly terrain. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability. Upper body strength will not be a big factor in this climb, more legs and lungs.
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 6 to 8 months to prepare yourself as strong candidate. You can go to fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e.10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. However during climbing and acclimatization, there might be little symptoms of altitude illness like mild headache, fatigue etc. but take it as normal and just drink a lot of water (4 – 5 liters) every day. On this trek, youneed to be able to hike 6 – 10 hours over hilly terrain up to 6,000m of altitude with daypack.On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 12 – 14 hours. We will have porters to carry our heavy camping equipment, food and also the climbing gears. 
Experience Required
This trip is aimed at the moderately experienced climber and/or very fit athlete wanting to test them at high altitude before attempting the 8000m peak. Suitable experience would be a past climbing trip to one of the 6,000m peak in the Himalayas (i.e. Island Peak 6,160m, Lobuche Peak 6,119m, Mera Peak 6,476m or any other one), or have completed technical mountaineering course and a good level of proficiency with leading rock climbs combined withiceand skiing experiences. If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
 You must have well knowledge about how to play with mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will surely increase the chances of reaching  thesummit and also previous trekking and mountaineering experiences is mandatory butdoesn’t really require any extreme technical experience. 

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Trip Notes

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