Mt. Lhotse Expedition (8,516m) – 65 days

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At a glance

Climbing Routes & High Camps

After final preparations in Kathmandu, we'll fly to Lukla and begins our 9 days teahouse trek in the Khumbu Valley toEverest base camp. We will ascent the peak via normal route, the south face route. We will establish four different camps on the mountain. The first, at 19,500ft, is situated at the top of the icefall. This camp function as an intermediate camp until CampII (advanced base camp) is established at 21,000ft. CampII will consist of large tents for cooking and dining and several smaller tents for sleeping. Camp II will be our base during the placements of Camp III and Camp IV (23,500ft and 25,912ft) respectively. Camp III, which stands at the head of the cirque on the Lhotse face, will consist of two and three men tents. This camp serves as an intermediate camp, which climbers will use to reach Camp IV. Most of our Sherpas are able to load ferry directly from Camp II to Camp IV. Large amount of gears are not needed at Camp III to establish Camp IV. Oxygen will be used above Camp III to aid climbers in reaching high camp before attempting the summit. From CampIV, we travel along the west ridge to the Summit. From here we traverse for a few hundred meters before reaching the main summit. 


  • Expedition will be finished after summiting the Mt Lhotse
  • Expert & experienced cook and crews
  • Excellent logistics at base camp with carpeted dinning with heaters.
  • KTM – LUKLA - KTM, a nice & spectacular mountain flight
  • A life changing trek to Everest base camp
  • Oxygens cylinders and Mask set for climbing purpose
  • 1:1, Personal Climbing Sherpa to each climber
  • Climb the world’s fourth highest peak, Mt.Lhotse with already summitted Sherpa Guides

Trekking Route

Our approach to base camp trekking begins with a spectacular mountain flight to Lukla (gate way of Everest region). Once we reach there, it takes us couple hours to arrange porters and then start walking along the Milk River (Dudh Koshi) for 2-3 hours and we'll reach at a small village called Phaking (2,625m), where you are going to spend your first night in Everest area. Next day, trek to Namche Bazar(3,440m), which lies at the base of the Khumbu Himal. The trek will take approximately 10 days and travels from the Dudh Kosi valley up through the Imja valley and finally onto the Khumbu glacier. Along the way we will visit Namche, Tengpoche, Pheriche, Lobuche and Gorekshep, all of which are fascinating and richly cultured villages, which provide spectacular views of the Himalayas. For acclimatization purpose, this trek is longer than usual. This also gives us the chance to explore the many different areas and take the time to visit local monasteries with Nepali Sherpa friends. Now you will have the option of a sunset or sunrise climb to the 5,550m' summit of Kala Pattar for a panoramic view of some of the world's highest mountains including Everest at 29,028ft. We'll make the 3-hour trek from Gorakshep to Everest Base Camp and continue our activities as per our expedition day-to-day plans. 


Mt. Lhotse (8,516m) peak is a part of the Everest Massif. The first attempt of Mt. Lhotse was made by an international team in the year 1955. The first successful ascent of this mountain was in 1956 by F. Luchsinger & E. Reiss of Swiss from the West Face. 

The primary route on Mt. Lhotse is via Everest’s South Col. The base camp & climbing route up to camp III of Mt. Lhotse & Mt. Everest is the same. The climbing route of Mt. Lhotse is separated from the route of Mt. Everest between South Col and Camp III. It is an independent mountain but the group of three peaks make up the Lhotse massif: Lhotse East or Middle, Lhotse & Lhotse Shar. The South Face of Lhotse is one of the largest mountain faces in the world. Our route to climb this mountain is via the normal route or South Face of Lhotse. 

Outline Itinerary

1 Day 01: Arrival in KTM, transfer to hotel& briefing

After you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you will have to go through custom formalities. You will be greeted by our representative who will be anxiously waiting for you with a placard displaying your name in his hand. You will be transferred to the 3-Star category hotel in a private vehicle. Once you get refreshed, you will get briefing regarding the itinerary and you will also be introduced with your crewmembers and other trekkers who are going to join you on the trip. Enjoy welcome dinner in the evening where you can taste authentic Nepali dinner. Stay overnight in a hotel.

2 Day 02: Half day sightseeing and afternoon equipment checking and fitting

In the morning after breakfast, we will organize half day sightseeing tour during which you will be taken on memorable UNESCO Heritage Tour. Tour begins with visit to Nepal’s holiest Pashupatinath Temple Complex and takes us through Nepal’s largest Bouddhanath Stupa and 2500 years old Swoyambhunath Stupa. We will return to hotel in the afternoon and time for shopping of any missing items, equipment checking and getting ready for the trip.

3 Day 03: Kathmandu; final preparation and packing

This is the preparation day. Expedition is a long and challenging activity. We need to get well prepared and equip ourselves with all necessary equipment and accessories for successful and enjoyable expedition.   

4 Day 04: Fly to Lukla (2840m), Trek to Phakding (2610m) 40min flight, 3-4hrs trek

We will drive to domestic terminal of Tribhuvan Airport early in the morning and catch a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. We will follow one of the most scenic air routes in the world with panoramic views of glistening mountains to Tenzing Hillary Airport in Lukla. Lukla allows access to Everest Khumbu region. We will assemble the crew and take breakfast before start of Everest3 Passes Trek and Island Peak. Following the stone path through Ghat village, we will reach Phakding village. Visit local monastery. Stay overnight in Phakding.

5 Day 05: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3,440m) 5-6hrs

Leaving Phakding, we will walk along Dudhkoshi River and enter the dense pine forest. We will cross suspension bridges and walk through dispersed houses of Zapute, Benkar and Chumoa to reach Monjo. Monjo allows an entrance to Sagarmatha National Park. We need to go through required national park formalities before we can enter the park. The park is rich in Himalayan herbs, plants, mammals and birds. We will descend to Hillary Bridge existing at the base of hill. After crossing the bridge, we will follow the escalating path towards Namche Bazaar. The path rewards us with views of Thamserku Mountain, Everest, Lhotse and other mountains and peaks. Stay overnight in Namche Bazaar.

6 Day 06: Day hikes - Khumjung, Khunde (3840m

Namche Bazaar acts as the major trade centre to conduct trade in between locals and neighbouring Tibetans. Namche is also popular as the capital of Sherpa land. It is wise to take rest at Namche on this day. For proper acclimatization with the changing altitude, we can arrange day hike to small Khumjung and Khunde villages. Visit the local monastery and observe the local lifestyle. Head office of National Park, Museum and monasteries are interesting places near Namche. We can get most of the modern facilities including hospital and post office at Namche. Stay overnight in Namche.

7 Day 07: Day hike to Thame (3,800m) 4-5hrs

Moving through the western Khumbu region, we will follow the scenic path that allows views of Himalayan wildlife. Thame is located at bit higher altitude than from Namche. It is a brief walk from Namche to Thame. Enjoy walking along yak caravans to and from Thame. This pretty village is popular among mountain climbers. We will visit Thame School in the afternoon. Explore around Thame and stay overnight.

8 Day 08: Trek Tengboche (3,860m) visit monastery 5hrs

The trail continues along glaciated DudhKoshi River from Namche. We will follow the scenic route with views of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse and other peaks and mountains and enter the forest area. Walking through the colourful rhododendron forest, we can get opportunity to view musk deer and colourful Himalayn birds like Danphe and Munal. We will move further to Sanasa village. The trail branches at Sanasa. We will follow the main trail towards Everest Base Camp. Following the escalating path from Sanasa, we will reach Tengboche. Gate of Tengboche Monastery is open after 3pm. We will visit Tengboche Monastery which is the largest monastery in the region.

9 Day 09: Trek Dengboche (4,410m) inChhukungValley 5hrs

Leaving Tengboche, we will enter the birch and rhododendron forest. In couple of hours, we will reach Debuche from where we will lower down to beautiful Chhukung Valley. We will descend to Imja River and follow the raised path to Pangboche. Monastery is Pangboche is believed to be the oldest Monastery in the region. Walking along the Mani walls, we will climb to Pheriche. Walking along Lobuche River, we will reach Dengboche village. Stay overnight in Dengboche.

10 Day 10: Day hikes to NagarjunPeak (52,000m) 5hrs

Taking rest from trek at Dengboche helps to break the stress. It also helps in proper acclimatization. We will take short walk to Nagarjuna View Point located at Nagarjuna Peak. Enjoy the 360 degree mountain views of Makalu, Lhotse, Amadablam, Island Peak and other mountains. We will return to Dengboche for staying overnight.

11 Day 11: Trek to Lobuche (4,910m) 4hrs

From Dengboche, we will return to Pheriche. The trail continues through Dugla to the steep moraine of Khumbu glacier. We will head towards ChupkiLhara which is the memorial site for renowned climber BabuChhiri Sherpa. ChupkiLhara is decorated with prayer flags. Walking through the Khumbu glacier moraine, we will reach Lobuche. Enjoy the panoramic views of Pumori Peak, Khumbutse Peak and other peaks and mountains. Stay overnight in Lobuche.

12 Day 12: Trek to Gorakshep (5,150m) 3hrs

From Lobuche, we will follow short and easy path to Gorakshep. Once vast, the lake has shrunk significantly lately. Stay overnight at the bank of GorakShep Lake. 

13 Day 13: Trek to Lhotse Base Camp(5200m) 2-3hrs

On this day, we will trek from Gorakshep to LhotseBase Camp. Once we reach the base camp, we will set up tents and stay overnight at base camp of Lhotse which exists beside Khumbu glacier. 

14 Day 14 to 16: Acclimatization and preparations at base camp

First couple of days are dedicated for preparation to climb Lhotse. Guide will share Lhotse climbing strategy with team. He will also provide you with necessary instructions and teach you what to do and how should you call for help if in case of emergency. For proper acclimatization, we can make a side trip to nearby places. 

15 Day 17 to 39: Acclimatization, load ferries and route opening

During these days, we will make necessary arrangement for successful climbing of Lhotse Mountain. Sherpas will make way and fix cables wherever necessary and set up High camps. You can explore base camp for proper acclimatization. 

16 Day 40 to 45: Rest at the lower villages, Debouche

During these days, we will practice rotation of High Camps. This will help us to get acclimatized with sharply increasing altitude. We will climb to High Camp1 and return to Base Camp. Similarly, we will practice climbing to High Camp2 and then lower down further to Debouche. It is never wise to hurry to reach to the summit. Climbing should be slow and gradual.

17 Day 46 to 56: Climbing up to campIV and summit push

After several days of preparation and acclimatization, we are finally ready to conquer Lhotse Mountain. We will choose the commercial route to climb Lhotse which starts from the north side of Lhotse. We need to walk through Khumbu icefall area. South face of Lhotse was climbed successfully for the first time on 1990. The western flank of Lhotse which is known as Lhotse Face rises at 40 and 50 degree pitches.
Base Camp to Camp 1(6065m)
Camp1 is perched at the top of Khumbu icefall. This Camp serves the purpose of transition from Base Camp to Camp2. There are crevasses near to Camp1. We will cross these crevasses with help of ladders.
Camp1 to Camp2 (6750m)
Camp2 exists in a lateral moraine at the base of west ridge. It is a safe place to prepare our camp and offers enchanting views of surrounding mountains. High altitude food will be served at this camp.
Camp2 to Camp3 (7100m)
We will set our Camp3 on ledge on Lhotse wall. Crossing glacier, we will make 40 degree climb and reach snowfield with help of fixed ropes.
Camp3 to Camp4 (7920m)
Camp4 is prepared near South Col. We need to cross two rock sections including Yellow Bands and Geneva Spur with help of fixed ropes before we can reach Camp4.
Camp4 to Summit (8516m) to Camp4
Finally, the wait is over. We will climb 40 degree slope and move through snow and ice to reach to the summit. We will enjoy the breath-taking views of summit and lower down to Camp4. 

18 Day 57 to 58: Descent to base camp

We will return to Base Camp of Lhotse by passing through High Camp 3, High Camp 2 and High Camp1. Descending trail is bit easier. We will celebrate the successful ascend of Lhotse Mountain at Base Camp.

19 Day 59: Trek to Pheriche 6hrs

Early in the morning after tea, we will clear the Base Camp and then head towards Pheriche where we will stay overnight.  

20 Day 60: Trek to Namche 5hrs

After following the easy descending trail through rhododendron forest to Dudhkoshi River, we will walk past tapered gorges and once again follow the trail through forest area that is rich in Himalayan wildlife. Once we arrive at Sanasa, we will enjoy the view of Amadablam Mountain. Walking through the forested edge beyond Kyangjuma, we will reach Namche. Enjoy the views of Everest, Tengboche and other peaks and mountains. Stay overnight at Namche.

21 Day 61: Trek to Lukla 6hrs

From Namche, we will lower down to rhododendron forest and walk along Dudhkoshi River to Phakding. Walking past the walled road of Ghat, we will reach Lukla. Stay overnight in Lukla.

22 Day 62: Fly back to Kathmandu

We will catch an early morning flight from Lukla to Kathmandu. This is rest day. Spend the day as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. We can also arrange for guided sightseeing tour. Alternatively, you can arrange your photo albums and jot down memories in your journal. Stay overnight in a hotel in Kathmandu.

23 Day 63 to 64: Free day in Kathmandu

Spend the days as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. We can also arrange for guided sightseeing tour. Alternatively, you can arrange your photo albums and jot down memories in your journal. 

24 Day 65: Depart for Int’l flight to home

You will be transferred to the Airport as per your schedule flight for international departure. Safe journey. We hope to see you soon.

Trip Facts

Cost Includes

  • Mt Lhotse Climbing Permit and all government taxes
  • National part permit fees
  • Khumbu Ice Fall Charges
  • Liaison officer wages, allowances and insurance
  • 6 (six) nights, 3 star hotel accommodation on single room BB basis
  • All domestic flights with departure taxes
  • Cargo to & from Lukla of expedition loads
  • Client’s excess baggage to & from Lukla
  • Porters/Yaks to carry expedition loads to & from Base Camp (BC)
  • Expedition Sherpa Guide/Sirdar
  • Experienced & Professional high altitude Personal Climbing Sherpa on 1:1 ratio
  • Experienced Expedition Cooks and Kitchen helpers
  • Permanent kitchen facilities at Camp II
  • Quality single tent to each client at BC with sleeping mattress
  • Quality carpeted dinning tent with heater at BC
  • All necessary kitchen & camping equipment
  • Shower facility at base camp
  • Shower facility at base camp
  • All necessary group climbing hardware gears including the ropes
  • Highly preferable meals at BC and for the higher camps
  • All the hot drinks with beverages during the expedition
  • Quality high altitude freeze dried food & individual packet food
  • EPI gases with burner for high camps
  • POISK Oxygen (04 cylinders Per Client & 02 cylinders Per Sherpa)
  • Mask and Regulator to each client (to be retuned after expedition)
  • Walkie-talkie set to each client with radio base at BC
  • Satellite phone for the emergency calls (Personal call on payable basis)
  • Solar Panel/Generator with accessories at BC for recharging & power supply
  • Oxygen set at BC for medical purpose
  • Gamow bag /PAC at BC for medical purpose
  • HMA duffel bags to each client
  • Daily wages, equipment bonus of staff
  • Insurance of local team members
  • All airport/hotel transfers by private vehicle
  • Half day city tours in Kathmandu
  • Celebration meal in Kathmandu

Cost Excludes

  • High altitude coverage travel insurance
  • International Air ticket & any departures taxes
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • Cost of emergency evacuation and medical treatment cost
  • Cost of personal natures of expenses
  • Tips & Summit bonus to the local staff
  • Cost occurred due to delay and cancellation of flights, extension of trek and climbing period etc.


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Useful Info

Climbing at and above 8,000 meters is inherently dangerous and is not the place to be learning mountaineering and climbing skills.Any expedition that goes to 8,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 50km on flat ground in approximately6 hours. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability.
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 8 to 12 months to prepare yourself as strong candidate. You can go to fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week.    On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 10 – 14 hours. On our all-8000m expeditions, we supply excellent logistics; good ratios of climbing support sherpas and standard number of oxygen, which plays the vital roll for the success and safe climb of the peak.
Experience Required
Himalaya Message Adventure strongly suggest that you must climb a number of 6,000m peaks in order to gain mountaineering proficiency and also undertake a trip to one of the 7,000m peak or one of the technically difficult 6000m peak i.e. Mt. Amadablam or similar, where you experience expedition camping, higher altitude, and how to deal with the cold.If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
You must have well knowledge about using of mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will increase the chances of reaching thesummit andalso previous mountaineering experiences is mandatory but doesn’t really require any high level of technical experience. 

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