At a glance

Climbing Routes & High Camps

After final preparations in Kathmandu, we'll drive to Beni and begins our 9 days camping trek to get base camp. We will ascent the peak via normal route “North East” establishing three high camps on the mountain. The Camp I, at 5,700m, is situated at the top of the Icefall on a large, flat area. Camp II, at 6,700m is on a small, flat area below an ice cliff and Camp III, at 7,250m located on a rocky ledge.

Our strong & professional high altitude climbing sherpas will fix ropes as required. Depending on our fitness, we'll be moving up and down the mountain several times, acclimatizing and stocking the higher camps. This expedition is fully supported with all the base camp & high camp services. Oxygen may be used above CampIII to help climbers in reaching high camps and for the summit push. Teamwork is an important in successfully scaling the summit of Mt Dhaulagiri.

TRIP HIGHTLIGHTS

Expedition will be finished after summiting the Mt.Dhaulagiri
Expert & experienced cook and crews
Excellent logistics at base camp with carpeted dinning and heaters.
Medical backup Oxygen and PAC/Gamov bag at base camp
A challenging, round Dhaulagiri trek
Climbing purpose Oxygen cylinders and Mask set
1:2 Personal Climbing Sherpa to each climber
Climb the technically challenging world’s eight highest peak, Mt.Dhaulagiri with expert and professional Sherpa Guides

Trekking Routes

Around Dhaulagiri trek begin in the antique city of Kathmandu, from where you will board a bus to Beni. You will spend the first few days of your trek walking through cultivated fields connected to some of the mountain villages while enjoying the shops, teahouses, and lifestyle of the Gurung, Chhetri, and Magar people. During these days you will walk along cobblestone paths, over suspension bridges and through dense forests, enjoying the vistas of some of the worlds most beautiful mountains. The climb begins to get tougher after Dobang, as you ascend to the Italian Base Camp with impressive views of Dhaulagiri I, II, III, IV & V; taking a day to rest, acclimatize, explore and fully absorb the beauty of surrounding peaks. You will then make your way to Dhaulagiri North Base Camp. On the return trek, the trek then continues on to the Iced French and ThapaPasses, which have to be scaled before you descend down a winding trail to Yak Kharka. Once again you will find yourself among mountain people and their villages. After long descend you will arrive in Marpha, popular city of Mustang district. You follow the Annapurna classical trek and pass the world’s deepest gorge. The hot springs at Tatopani offer an excellent retreat after a strenuous trek surrounded by the majestic peak of Annapurna and Machhapuchhare.

From Tatopani you make your way back to Pokhara, visiting several monasteries on the way and sites of religious importance.

Description

Mt. Dhaulagiri (8,167m), the White Mountain was first climbed by the Swiss in 1960 via North East Col and it’s located in the North Central of Nepal. It remained as highest peak in the world till 1848 AD. Later it was mapped by one of the secret Indian surveyors in 1873 AD. But the region remained largely unknown until a Swiss aerial survey in 1949. The French Annapurna Expedition, led by Mr. Herzog in 1950, had permission to climb either Dhaulagiri or Annapurna but decided on Annapurna after a reconnaissance of Dhaulagiri. A Swiss team failed to climb in 1953 as did an Argentine group one year later.

Mt. Dhalulagiri is the perfect trip for those who want a more intense experience of the mountains. We will be trekking deep into the Dhaulagiri region, providing more spectacular views of Mt Dhaulagiri, ThorongPeak, Annapurna I and Kali Gandaki, the world’s deepest gorge. We may encounter semi wild yak herds, Mountain sheep or the elusive snow leopard in the remote valleys of this region.

This mountain is 7th highest and one of the world’s 14 “above 8000m” high mountains. It demands the best quality of technical equipments and highly motivated technically sound climbers’ team. It has typical weather conditions, which is very difficult to predict. The Base Camp is located at a height of 4740m. on Chhonbardan glacier below a rocky knob.

Outline Itinerary

1 Day 01: Arrival in KTM, transfer to hotel& briefing

After you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you will have to go through custom formalities. You will be greeted by our representative who will be anxiously waiting for you with a placard displaying your name in his hand. You will be transferred to the 3-Star category hotel in a private vehicle. Once you get refreshed, you will get briefing regarding the itinerary and you will also be introduced with your crewmembers and other trekkers who are going to join you on the trip. Enjoy welcome dinner in the evening where you can taste authentic Nepali dinner. Stay overnight in a hotel.

2 Day 02: Half day sightseeing and afternoon equipment checking and fitting

In the morning after breakfast, we will organize half day sightseeing tour during which you will be taken on memorable UNESCO Heritage Tour. Tour begins with visit to Nepal’s holiest Pashupatinath Temple Complex and takes us through Nepal’s largest Bouddhanath Stupa and 2500 years old Swoyambhunath Stupa. We will return to hotel in the afternoon and time for shopping of any missing items, equipment checking and getting ready for the trip.

3 Day 03: Kathmandu; final preparation and packing

This is the preparation day. Expedition is a long and challenging activity. We need to get well prepared and equip ourselves with all necessary equipment and accessories for successful and enjoyable expedition.

4 Day 04: Drive to Beni (830m) 10hrs

We will drive from Kathmandu and follow Prithvi Highway. The journey is scenic with views of green hills, forest and river. In about 5hrs, we will reach Pokhara. Beni is 82km far from Pokhara. Driving along the edge of Mardi River, we will reach Beni after passing through Naudanda, Kusma and other villages. The famous bazaar of Beni is located at the junction of Myagdi and Kali Gandaki River. Stay overnight in Beni.

5 Day 05: Trek to Darbang (1180m) 6hrs

From Beni, our journey continues along bank of MyagdiRiver. Crossing a bridge, we will pass through small settlements toTatopani. The journey continues through Simalchaurto Babiyachaur from where we will walk through gravelledpath to Darbang.Stay overnight at Darbang.

6 Day 06: Trek to Khibang (1,800m)5hrs

After an early morning tea, we will walk through the rugged path and reach Muri village from where our trail continues to Khibang. This is a small multi-ethnic village where Thakali, Gurung and other ethnic people are living peacefully.

7 Day 07: Trek to Boghara (2,080m) 6hrs

Boghara is the last village in Dhaulagiri Expedition. Leaving Khibang, we will walk past the Gurung village of Muri to Boghara. Enjoy the scenic views of Dhaulagiri Mountain Range as we walk past terraces and fields to Boghara. Stay overnight in Boghara village.

8 Day 08: Trek to Dobhang (2,520m) 6hrs

Leaving Boghara, we will lower down through terraced field and reach a small ridge. Walking through forest, we will reach Jyardanvillage. The trail escalates uphill from Jyardin and cross Lipshe to LapcheKharka from where we will continue walking to Dobhang. Stay overnight at Dobhang.

9 Day 09: Trek to Forest Camp (3,000m) 5hrs

Crossing the river, we will enter forest area. Our journey continues through dense pine woods. We can enjoy the scenic view of Dhaulagiri I (8167m) Mountain. We will lower down to Myagdi River.Crossing Myagdi, we will reachChartare. Our journey continues to ChoribanRiver.Set our camp at Pina.

10 Day 10: Trek to Italian Camp (3,500m) 6hrs

We will exit from forest and climb to Italian Base Camp from where we will reach glacier valley. Walking through Chhonbaran glacier, we will enjoy the views of Tukuche Peak and Dhaulagiri I mountain. Italian Base Camp is located at 3500m altitude and the base camp allows scenic views of Dhaulagiri II Mountain, Dhaulagiri III Mountain and Dhaulagiri V Mountain. Stay overnight at Italian Camp.

11 Day 11: Acclimatization day

We will take rest on this day. Taking rest helps us in preparation for the upcoming climbing of Dhaulagiri. Explore around for better acclimatization.

12 Day 12: Trek to Moraine Camp (3,860m) 6hrs

Leaving Italian Camp, we will walk through glacier. We might need help of rope at some section. From this point, our adventure through glacier begins. We will move through challenging path which is made slippery with melting glacier. We will set our camp at moraine. Stay overnight at Moraine Camp.

13 Day 13: Trek to Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4,740m) 7hrs

On this day, we will walk through glacier. Adventure is relatively easy for first couple of hours. Later, we will walk through rubble and ice section and take the difficult climb to Dhaulagiri Base Camp. We will enjoy the spectacular views of Dhaulagiri Mountain Range. Stay overnight at Dhaulagiri Base Camp.

14 Day 14 to 15: Acclimatization and preparations at base camp

First couple of days are dedicated for preparation to climb Dhaulagiri. Guide will share Dhaulagiri climbing strategy with team. He will also provide you with necessary instructions and teach you what to do and how should you call for help if in case of emergency. For proper acclimatization, we can make side trip to nearby places. We will pack food and prepare our gear.

15 Day 16 to 40: Acclimatization, load ferries, route opening & Summit attempt

We will make necessary arrangement for successful climbing of Dhaulagiri Mountain. Sherpas will make way and fix cables wherever necessary and set up High camps.Practice climbing to Camp 1 and Camp 2. Descend to less altitude if you feel difficulty in breathing. Make yourself accustomed to High Altitude food. Normal route is through Northeast ridge. It was climbed in 1960 for the first time. We will make 4 Camps.
Base Camp to Advance Base Camp (5300m)
Advance Base Camp will be placed at 5300m. There is possibility of avalanche at Advance Base Camp. So, we may not stay at this camp for overnight.
Advance Base Camp to Camp 1 (5900m)
Camp1 will be placed at 5900m. This camp will be located on Col East.
Camp1 to Camp2 (6400m)
Climbing vertically through 60degree ice slopes, we will reach Camp2 from Camp1.
Camp2 to Camp3 (7200m)
We will place Camp3 at 7200m. We need to walk through crevasses and cross seracs to reach Camp3.
Camp3 to Camp4 (7500m)
Leaving Camp3, we will walk towards East Ridge. We may experience heavy wind before we reach Camp 4. Section from Camp 3 to Camp4 is the most difficult.
Camp4 to Summit (8167m)
We will climb to summit and enjoy breath-taking views of surrounding peaks and mountains. We will descend to Camp3 before making gradual descend to Base Camp.

16 Day 41 tp 43: Base Camp

We will celebrate the successful climbing of Dhaulagiri and take rest at Base Camp. Clear the base camp and dispose the garbage

17 Day 44 to 47: Trek to Beni via hidden valley and yak kharka

Leaving Base Camp, we will move ahead and cross French Pass. From French Pass, the trail lowers down to Hidden Valley. Our journey continues through the meadow of Hidden Valley to Dhampus Pass. We need to cross Dhampus Pass (5200m) before descending to Yak Kharka. Yak Kharka is the local winter settlement area. From this lush green meadow, we will lower down to Marpha which is famopus for apple production. Take slow sip of local apple brew at Marpha before heading towards Beni. Stay overnight at Beni.

18 Day 48: Drive to Kathmandu

We will leave Beni and return to Kathmandu via Pokhara. You will be transferred back to hotel. Relax for rest of the day and stay overnight at hotel.

19 Day 49: KTM, Free day

Spend the day as you like. You can go for shopping in Thamel where you can buy souvenir items. We can also arrange for guided sightseeing tour. Alternatively, you can arrange your photo albums and jot down memories in your journal.

20 Day 50: Departure, Int’l flight to home

You will be transferred to the Airport as per your schedule flight for international departure. Safe journey. We hope to see you soon.

Trip Facts

Cost Includes

Mt Dhaulagiri Climbing Permit and all government taxes
National park/Conservation permit fees
Liaison officer wages, allowances and insurance
5 (five) nights, 3 star hotel accommodation on single room BB basis
All location transport by private vehicle
Porters/Yak to carry expedition loads to & from Base Camp (BC)
Expedition Sherpa Guide/Sirdar
Experienced & Professional high altitude Personal Climbing Sherpa on 1:2 ratio
Experienced Expedition Cooks and Kitchen helpers
Quality single tent to each client at BC with sleeping mattress
Quality dinning tent at BC
All necessary kitchen & camping equipment
Shower facility at base camp
Quality high altitude tents for the higher camps
All necessary group climbing hardware gears including the ropes
Highly preferable meals at BC and for the higher camps
All the hot drinks with beverages during the expedition
Quality high altitude freeze dried food & individual packet food
EPI gases with burner for high camps
POISK Oxygen (03 cylinders Per Client & 01 cylinder Per Sherpa)
Mask and Regulator to each client (to be retuned after expedition)
Walkie-talkie set to each client with radio base at BC
Satellite phone for the emergency call (Personal call on payable basis)
Solar Panel/Generator with accessories at BC for recharging & power supply
Oxygen set at BC for medical purpose
Gamow bag /PAC at BC for medical purpose
HMA duffel bags to each client
Daily wages, equipment bonus of staff
Insurance of local team members
All airport/hotel transfers by private vehicle
Half day city tours in Kathmandu
Celebration meal in Kathmandu

Cost Excludes

High altitude coverage travel insurance
International Air ticket & any departures taxes
Personal climbing equipment
Cost of emergency evacuation and medical treatment cost
Cost of personal natures of expenses
Tips & Summit bonus to the local staff
Cost occurred due to delay and cancellation of flights, extension of trek and climbing period etc.

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Useful Info

Fitness
Climbing at and above 8,000 meters is inherently dangerous and is not the place to be learning mountaineering and climbing skills.Any expedition that goes to 8,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 50km on flat ground in approximately6 hours. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability.
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 8 to 12 months to prepare yourself as strong candidate. You can go to fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week. On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 10 – 14 hours. On our all-8000m expeditions, we supply excellent logistics; good ratios of climbing support sherpas and standard number of oxygen, which plays the vital roll for the success and safe climb of the peak.

Experience Requied
Himalaya Message Adventure strongly suggest that you must climb a number of 6,000m peaks in order to gain mountaineering proficiency and also undertake a trip to one of the 7,000m peak or one of the technically difficult 6000m peak i.e. Mt. Amadablam or similar, where you experience expedition camping, higher altitude, and how to deal with the cold.If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
You must have well knowledge about using of mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will increase the chances of reaching thesummit andalso previous mountaineering experiences is mandatory but doesn’t really require any high level of technical experience.