Mt. Makalu Expedition (8,463m) – 58 days

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At a glance

Climbing Routes and High Camps

Our expedition to Mt. Makalu begins with spectacular mountain flight to Tumlingtar and we will start our walk from Tumlingtar, just above the Arun River to Makalu lower Base Camp at approximately 4,800 meters. We'll ascend via the Northwest/normal route of Makalu La Ridge, establishing 4 high camps on the mountain. Our strong & professional high altitude climbing Sherpas will fix ropes as required. Depending on our fitness, we'll be moving up and down the mountain several times, acclimatizing and stocking the higher camps. This expedition is fully supported with all the base camp & high camp services. Team work is important for successfully scaling the summit of Mt Makalu.

TRIP HIGHTLIGHTS

  • Expedition will be finished after summiting the Mt Makalu
  • Expert & experienced cook and crews
  • Medical back up with Oxygen and Gamow bag at base camp
  • An unforgettable and amazing trek to Arun valley
  • Oxygens cylinders and Mask set for climbing purpose
  • 1:2 ratios of climbing Sherpa support for summit push
  • Our Sherpa climbers are multiple times Mt. Everest summiteers
  • Climb the world’s fifth highest peak, Mt. Makalu with professional and already summitted & Sherpa Guides

Description

Mt. Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world at 8,463m. It is an isolated peak, located just 22 km east ofMount Everest between Everest and Kanchenjunga, on the Nepali-Tibetan border. Its size alone is impressive, but its structure, that of a perfect pyramid with four sharp ridges, makes this mountain all the more spectacular. It has proved to be not only a beautiful peak but also challenging. Previously, it had been admired and studied by several Everest parties and it was first climbed by the French in 1955

Outline Itinerary

1 Day 01: Arrival in KTM, Transfer to Hotel& Briefing

After you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, you will have to go through custom formalities. You will be greeted by our representative who will be anxiously waiting for you with a placard displaying your name in his hand. You will be transferred to the 3-Star category hotel in a private vehicle. Once you get refreshed, you will get briefing regarding the itinerary and you will also be introduced with your crewmembers and other climbers who are going to join you on the trip. Enjoy welcome dinner in the evening where you can taste authentic Nepali dinner. Stay overnight in a hotel.

2 Day 02: Half Day sightseeing and afternoon equipment checking and fitting

In the morning after breakfast, we will organize half day sightseeing tour during which you will be taken on memorable UNESCO Heritage Tour. Tour begins with visit to Nepal’s holiest Pashupatinath Temple Complex and takes us through Nepal’s largest Bouddhanath Stupa and 2500 years old Swoyambhunath Stupa. We will return to hotel in the afternoon and time for shopping of any missing items, equipment checking and getting ready for the trip.

3 Day 03: Final preparation and packing

This is the preparation day. Expedition is a long and challenging activity. We need to get well prepared and equip ourselves with all necessary equipment and accessories for successful and enjoyable expedition.   

4 Day 04: Kathmandu to Tumlingtar flight(50min), Trek to Khadbari (1,040m) 5hrs

It takes 50minutes of flight to reach Tumlingtar from Kathmandu. The air route is scenic with aerial views of mountains like Ganesh Mountain, Everest, Makalu and Kanchenjunga. We will reach Tumlingtar Airport that is perched atop the hill. Descending from airport, we will reach to the right edge ofShawaKhola. ChamlangMountain can be seen at distance. Walking along the river, we will proceed towards Khadbariwhich is a mountainous town with banking and other facilities. Stay overnight in Khadbari.

5 Day 05: Trek to Num (1,560m) 6-7hrs

We will head north and climb uphill to reach Mane Bhanjyang village. The trail continues through terraced field and local houses of Pangma to Bhotebas. This pretty village offers spectacular mountain views towards north. Walking past tiny local settlements, we will traverse rhododendron forest and reach Sakurate. We will continue to follow the path through rhododendron forest to Num where we will stay overnight.

6 Day 06: Trek to Sedua (1,980m) 5hrs

We will follow the descending path fromNumand walk through forest to Lumbang. From there, the trail drops down toArun River. Moving through the slippery path, we will reach a suspension bridge from where we will climb uphill to Sedua. Entry point to Makalu Barun National Park exists in Sedua. Stay overnight in Sedua.

7 Day 07: Trek to TashiGaon (2,100m) 3-4hrs

From Sedua, the trail continues through farmland and mani walls. Climbing to the top of hill located aboveIpsuwa and Kasuwa rivers, we will pass through Sherpa village of Navagaon to reach KharsingKharka. Moving further, we will reach Tashigaon which is the last significant village that we encounter on our expedition. 

8 Day 08: Trek to Khongma (3,200m)5-6hrs

Leaving Tashigaon early in the morning, we will walk through rhododendron and oak forest. The trail takes us through meadow area where we can see local herd grazing lazily over lush green vegetation. The trail contours up through stone steps to Khongma which is located atop the hill. Stay overnight in Khongma. 

9 Day 09: Trek to Mumbuk (3,520m) 6hrs

From Khongma, we will traverse the colourful forest and reach to the ridge with mani walls and prayer flags. Enjoy the panoramic views of Kanchenjunga and crossKeke La pass (4,230m) and Tutu La pass (4,200m) before lowering down through rhododendron forest to Mumbuk. Stay overnight at Mumbuk. 

10 Day 10: Trek to YangleKharka (4,200m) 7hrs

Trek after Mumbuk is bit challenging. We will walk through landslide prone area for about 3 hours. Barun River can be seen from most of the point. We can also enjoy the panoramic views of Peak 6 (6,739m) and Peak 7 (6,185m). Stay overnight in YangleKharka.

11 Day 11: Rest & Acclimatization day

YangleKharka is one of the best place to take rest. The view of mountains from YangleKharka is unbeatable. Explore around YangleKharka for proper acclimatization and prepare yourself for the challenging climb to Makalu summit. Stay overnight at YangleKharka. 

12 Day 12: Trek to Langmale/Shershon (4,630m)8hrs

Walking upstream, we will reach NgleKharka. Enjoying mountain views from NgleKharka, we will reach the alpine meadow of RupakKharka from where we will walk towards another shepherd area of JhakKharka. Walking past waterfall, we will reach summer grazing land of Yak Kharka from where we will head west and walk through gravel area with breath-taking view of Lower Barun glacier to Sherson from where we will stay overnight.

13 Day 13: Trek to Makalu lower base camp (4,870m) 6hrs

Walking along eastern side of valley that allows scenic view of Makalu mountain, we will take slow descend to small pass. Climbing that pass, we will lower down to river and walk through boulders to reach Makalu Base Camp that is located on the western edge of river. Enjoy the breath-taking view of south face of Makalu from base camp and stay overnight. 

14 Day 14: Rest, Acclimatization & Preparations day

This is the rest day which helps us for proper acclimatization to the increasing altitude before climbing Makalu. To the right side of our camp exists many interesting view points from where we can get closer look at Makalu Mountain, BarunPokhari, Lhotse and Everest. We can take short hile to the meadow and return to Base Camp for overnight stay.

15 Day 15: Trek to Advance Makalu base camp (5,600m) 3-4hrs

Walking through the desolate area from lower Makalu Base Camp,we will reach to Advance Makalu Base Camp that exists at the snout of Barun glacier. We will place our camp nearby the glacial pond. We can climb a little higher than our camp for better view of Makalu. Return to Advanced Camp.  

16 Day 16 to 17: Acclimatization and preparations for climbing to higher camps

We will spend the first couple of days at Advanced Base Camp. The guide will share Makalu Climbing strategy with us.  We will climb to High Camp I and lower down to Base Camp. Rotation of camps help us in acclimatization.

17 Day 18 to 50: Acclimatization, load ferries, route opening, summit attempt of the Mt. Makalu (8,463m) and descend to the base camp

Days from 18 to 50 are dedicated in climbing Makalu. We will choose the normal route that progresses through southeast ridge.We will place 3High Camps.
High Camp I and High Camp II
 High Camp I is located at 6500m and High Camp II exists at 7300m. These two Camps are founded at the base of southeast ridge. We will cross glacier and pass through snow field and hanging ice fall. Basic Alpine climbing technique is enough to reach up to Camp II. We need to climb 35 to 45 degree slope.     
High Camp III
High Camp III is located at the beginning of southeast ridge at 7900m.We need to climb 50 to 55 degree slope till we reach High Camp III.
Climb to Makalu Summit and Descend to Base Camp
Expect to climb 70 to 75degree slopes to reach to the summit. We will need help of fixed ropes. After enjoying spectacular views of mountains and surrounding from summit, we will return to base camp where we will celebrate successful climbing of Makalu. 

18 Day 51: Trek YangleKharka8-9hrs

Return trip begins on this day. We will clean Makalu Base Camp and return to YangleKharka via Sherson.The path is scenic with panoramic views of several mountains. Stay overnight at YangleKharka. 

19 Day 52: Trek to Mumbuk6hrs

Return trail from YangleKharka to Mumbuk is easier as we will be following descending trail for most of the day. We will walk past rock fall and then the trail takes us through rock gully all the way to Mumbuk. Returning to Mumbuk, we will be greeted with green sceneries. Stay overnight at Mumbuk.

20 Day 53: Trek to TashiGaon 8hrs

Leaving Mumbuk early in the morning, we will walkthrough rhododendron and fir forest. We need to cross Keke La, Shipton La Pass and Ghurung La Pass so that we can reach Khongma. The trail takes sharp descend from Khongma to TashiGaon where we will stay overnight.

21 Day 54: Trek to Num 5hrs

From TashiGaon, we will lower down to Arun River and retrace the route to Seduwa. Walking through forest, we will lower down once again to river and climb through the opposite side of valley to reach Num where we will stay overnight. 

22 Day 55: Trek to Tumlingtar 8hrs

After early morning tea, we will return to Chichila and continue our journey through Mane Bhanjyang to Tumlingtar. Stay overnight at Tumlingtar.

23 Day 56: Fly to KTM, transfer to hotel

We will take flight back to Kathmandu from Tumlingtar. Once we reach domestic airport in Kathmandu, you will be transferred to hotel. Take rest. Stay overnight at hotel. 

24 Day 57: Free Day for Shopping & Evening celebration time

This is a free day. You can go for shopping in freak street of Thamel. Return to hotel. We will celebrate the successful adventure.  

25 Day 58: Final departure

You will be transferred to the Airport as per your flight schedule. Safe journey. We hope to see you soon.

Trip Facts

Cost Includes

  • Mt. Makalu Climbing Permit and all government taxes
  • National park/Conservation permit fees
  • Liaison officer wages, allowances and insurance
  • 5 (five) nights, 3 star hotel accommodation on single room BB basis
  • All location transport by private vehicle
  • Porters/Yaks to carry expedition loads to & from Base Camp (BC)
  • Expedition Sherpa Guide/Sirdar
  • Experienced & Professional high altitude personal climbing Sherpa on 1:2 ratio
  • Experienced Expedition Cooks and Kitchen helpers
  • Quality single tent to each client at BC with sleeping mattress
  • Quality dinning tent at BC
  • All necessary kitchen & camping equipment
  • Shower facility at base camp
  • Quality high altitude tents for the higher camps
  • All necessary climbing hardware gears including the ropes
  • Highly preferable meals at BC and for the higher camps
  • All the hot drinks with beverages during the expedition
  • Quality high altitude freeze dried food & individual packet food
  • EPI gases with burner for high camps
  • POISK Oxygen (03 cylinders Per Client & 01 cylinder Per Sherpa)
  • Mask and Regulator to each client (to be retuned after expedition)
  • Walkie-talkie set to each client with radio base at BC
  • Satellite phone for the emergency call (Personal call on payable basis)
  • Solar Panel/Generator with accessories at BC for recharging & power supply
  • Oxygen set at BC for medical purpose
  • Gamow bag /PAC at BC for medical purpose
  • HMA duffel bags to each client
  • Daily wages, equipment bonus of staff
  • Insurance of local team members
  • All airport/hotel transfers by private vehicle
  • Half day city tours in Kathmandu
  • Celebration meal in Kathmandu

Cost Excludes

  • High altitude coverage travel insurance
  • International Air ticket & any departures taxes
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • Cost of emergency evacuation and medical treatment cost
  • Cost of personal natures of expenses
  • Tips & Summit bonus to the local staff
  • Cost occurred due to delay and cancellation of flights, extension of trek and climbing period etc.

Videos

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Useful Info

Fitness
Climbing at and above 8,000 meters is inherently dangerous and is not the place to be learning mountaineering and climbing skills.Any expedition that goes to 8,000m requires a very high level of aerobic fitness. Being fit will certainly improve your chances of reaching your chosen summit. Your resting heart rate should be below 60 but preferably below 50. You should be able to run 50km on flat ground in approximately6 hours. Endurance and the ability to carry a heavy pack of up to 25kg is more important than sprint ability.
In order to get ready for this challenge, you need to be trained at least for about 8 to 12 months to prepare yourself as strong candidate. You can go to fitness center every morning for about 2 hours, do hiking every weekend with increasing weights on your pack (i.e. 10kg, 15kg, 20 kg, and up to 25kg), manage some time for cycling for couple of hours for 3 or 4 times a week.    On the summit push, extra effort is required walking on ice and climbing up to 10 – 14 hours. On our all-8000m expeditions, we supply excellent logistics; good ratios of climbing support sherpas and standard number of oxygen, which plays the vital roll for the success and safe climb of the peak.
 
Experience
Himalaya Message Adventure strongly suggest that you must climb a number of 6,000m peaks in order to gain mountaineering proficiency and also undertake a trip to one of the 7,000m peak or one of the technically difficult 6000m peak i.e. Mt. Amadablam or similar, where you experience expedition camping, higher altitude, and how to deal with the cold.If you are fit and motivated but lacked technical climbing skills or suitable experience, we have options to keep you safe and get you high. This might be a personal Sherpa or a pre-trip training course.
You must have well knowledge about using of mountaineering gears, good with rock climbing and ice climbing, will increase the chances of reaching thesummit andalso previous mountaineering experiences is mandatory but doesn’t really require any high level of technical experience. 

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Trip Notes

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