Mera Peak Climbing

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Description

Trip Introduction

Mera Peak Climbing takes us to the summit of Mera Peak (6,461m/21,190ft) which is the highest trekking peak in Nepal. We ascend Mera Peak preferably during the spring and autumn seasons as it’s the best time to climb the mountain for its astonishing views of the Himalayan Vista. Five 8,000m peaks are visible from the summit including Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu and Kanchenjunga.

Himalayan Glacier organized its first climbing trip to Mera Peak in 1992. Our Mera Peak Itinerary is carefully designed with steady ascent and a separate day set aside in Khare to allow plenty of time for acclimatization. The usual route to Mera Peak is directly via the Zatra La Pass, but we follow the route that heads south from Lukla and up the beautiful Hinku Valley and later return via Zatra La pass. Following this route has a few advantages. We not only pass through the beautiful Nepalese wilderness but also through quaint villages which will give us a glimpse into the rich culture of the locals. Additionally, since the route is longer, it’s better for acclimatization.

Mera Peak climbing is an excellent option for anyone with moderate mountaineering experience. It is a challenging trekking peak due to its elevation, but the technical mountaineering skills requirement is very basic. Besides, Himalayan Glacier’s seasoned Sherpa guide will provide us with a basic mountaineering training before the actual summit.

Included in the Cost

  • Airport pickups and drops in a private vehicle
  • 3-star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast
  • Teahouse accommodation during the trek
  • Tented accommodation during the climb
  • All meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner) during the trek and climb
  • Welcome and farewell dinners
  • All ground transportation on a comfortable private vehicle as per the itinerary
  • Domestic flights (Kathmandu- Lukla -Kathmandu)
  • English speaking, trained and experienced trekking guide(leader), climbing guide (leader) and assistant guides
  • Porter service (2 trekkers: 1 porter)
  • Staff costs including their salary, insurance, equipment, domestic airfare, food and accommodation
  • Down jacket  (to be returned after trip completion)
  • Himalayan Glacier’s trekking bag/duffel bag, t-shirt and trekking map are yours to take
  • All necessary paper work; trekking permits and Mera Peak climbing permit
  • Good quality tents and kitchen utensils for camping
  • Group mountaineering (climbing) equipments
  • Medical kit (carried by your guide)
  • All government and local taxes

Outline Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu (1,300m/4,264ft)

Day 02: Kathmandu: trip preparation

Day 03: Fly to Lukla, trek to Paiya (Chutok) (2,730m/8,956ft): 40 mins flight, 5-6 hours trek

Day 04: Paiya to Panggom (2,846m/9,337ft): 5-6 hours

Day 05: Panggom to Ningsow (2,863m/9,393ft): 4-5 hours

Day 06: Ningsow to Chhatra Khola (2,800m/9,186ft): 7-8 hours

Day 07: Chhatra Khola to Kothe (3,691m/12,109ft): 6-7 hours

Day 08:  Kothe to Thaknak (4,358m/14,297ft): 3-4 hours

Day 09: Thaknak to Khare (5,045m/16,486ft): 2-3 hours

Day 10: Khare: Acclimatization and pre–climb training

Day 11: Khare to Mera High Camp (5,780m/18,958ft): 6-7 hours

Day 12: Mera High Camp to Summit (6,461m/21,1907ft) and back to Khare (5045m/16,547ft): 8-9 hours

Day 13: Reserve Day for Contingency

Day 14: Khare to Kothe (3600m/11808ft): 4-5 hours

Day 15: Kothe to Thuli Kharka (4,300 m/14,107ft): 5-6 hours

Day 16: Thuli Kharla to Lukla via Zatrwa La pass: 6-7 hours

Day 17: Fly to Kathmandu

Day 18: Final departure

Not really satisfied with this itinerary ? Make your own

Accommodations

We will be staying in Hotel Moonlight, a 3-star hotel in Kathmandu, standard teahouses during trekking and tents when climbing which are all included in the cost. Most teahouse accommodations will only have shared toilet facilities. For tent accommodation, foam mattress will be made available. In climbing section, toilet facilities will be provided with necessary natural preservation. All accommodations in Kathmandu and in teahouses are on a twin-shared basis whereas a single tent will be provided to each individual for the climbing section. We can also request for a single room in Kathmandu by paying a single supplement of USD 350. However, there are several teahouses on the trekking route that do not allow single room accommodation. On paying a single supplement, you will get a single room in Kathmandu but sometimes it is feasible only in the trekking areas of the lower elevations.

Meals

During our Mera Peak climbing trip, we can enjoy Nepalese, Tibetan, Indian and the more common continental cuisines. A buffet-style breakfast will be provided from our hotel in Kathmandu. All meals including breakfast, lunch and dinner will be available during the trekking and climbing sections. Welcome and farewell dinners are also something to look forward to.

Team Composition

Trekking : While trekking, we will provide you a fully trained, English speaking, experienced trekking guide. Every 4 members are entitled to 1 assistant guide, also 1 porter for every two members to carry the luggage.

Climbing : We will provide you a licensed, English speaking, veteran climbing guide. There is also the provision of assistant guides, for a group size of 2-4 people; there will be 1 main guide and 1 assistant guide. In a group size of 5-8 people, there will be 1 main guide and 2 assistant guides. Finally with a group of 9-12 people, we shall be offering you 1 main guide and 3 assistant guides. Other staff members will include one experienced cook and necessary Sherpa staff, mostly assistants who will assist in setting up camps during the climb.

This arrangement of staff will ensure the safety of each and every member in the group; also if any member falls ill, the trip will still go ahead as planned. Please also note that the maximum number of people in a group will be 12, as this is the optimum size for a successful trip.

Physical Condition & Experience Requirements

The difficulty for Mera Peak climbing is rated 2B. This means that the technical requirement is very basic and includes use of ropes, ice axe and crampons. You are also required to have good cardio-vascular fitness. Mera Peak is not categorized as a technical peak but a bit of technical knowledge would be beneficial for a small section of the climb which is about 50m. This will probably be the toughest part of the climb as the slope is around 40 degrees of ice/snow. Previous experience with using ice axe and crampons is preferred, although not mandatory because a basic ice-climbing training will be provided before the summit. Lots of willpower, the ability to tolerate harsh conditions, reasonable fitness and good health will help in making this trip successful. It is important that participants with pre-existing medical problems or conditions make these known to Himalayan Glacier at the time of booking.

Best Time to Travel

The best time of the year to summit Mera Peak is Spring (March to May) and Autumn (September to November). The best months has been defined on the basis of visibility and weather condition.

Trip Start Dates and Cost

Check available trip start dates and cost for Mera Peak Climbing. Please contact us for your customized departure date.

Trip Introduction

Mera Peak Climbing takes us to the summit of Mera Peak (6,461m/21,190ft) which is the highest trekking peak in Nepal. We ascend Mera Peak preferably during the spring and autumn seasons as it’s the best time to climb the mountain for its astonishing views of the Himalayan Vista. Five 8,000m peaks are visible from the summit including Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu and Kanchenjunga.

Himalayan Glacier organized its first climbing trip to Mera Peak in 1992. Our Mera Peak Itinerary is carefully designed with steady ascent and a separate day set aside in Khare to allow plenty of time for acclimatization. The usual route to Mera Peak is directly via the Zatra La Pass, but we follow the route that heads south from Lukla and up the beautiful Hinku Valley and later return via Zatra La pass. Following this route has a few advantages. We not only pass through the beautiful Nepalese wilderness but also through quaint villages which will give us a glimpse into the rich culture of the locals. Additionally, since the route is longer, it’s better for acclimatization.

Mera Peak climbing is an excellent option for anyone with moderate mountaineering experience. It is a challenging trekking peak due to its elevation, but the technical mountaineering skills requirement is very basic. Besides, Himalayan Glacier’s seasoned Sherpa guide will provide us with a basic mountaineering training before the actual summit.

Included in the Cost

  • Airport pickups and drops in a private vehicle
  • 3-star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast
  • Teahouse accommodation during the trek
  • Tented accommodation during the climb
  • All meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner) during the trek and climb
  • Welcome and farewell dinners
  • All ground transportation on a comfortable private vehicle as per the itinerary
  • Domestic flights (Kathmandu- Lukla -Kathmandu)
  • English speaking, trained and experienced trekking guide(leader), climbing guide (leader) and assistant guides
  • Porter service (2 trekkers: 1 porter)
  • Staff costs including their salary, insurance, equipment, domestic airfare, food and accommodation
  • Down jacket  (to be returned after trip completion)
  • Himalayan Glacier’s trekking bag/duffel bag, t-shirt and trekking map are yours to take
  • All necessary paper work; trekking permits and Mera Peak climbing permit
  • Good quality tents and kitchen utensils for camping
  • Group mountaineering (climbing) equipments
  • Medical kit (carried by your guide)
  • All government and local taxes

Outline Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu (1,300m/4,264ft)

Day 02: Kathmandu: trip preparation

Day 03: Fly to Lukla, trek to Paiya (Chutok) (2,730m/8,956ft): 40 mins flight, 5-6 hours trek

Day 04: Paiya to Panggom (2,846m/9,337ft): 5-6 hours

Day 05: Panggom to Ningsow (2,863m/9,393ft): 4-5 hours

Day 06: Ningsow to Chhatra Khola (2,800m/9,186ft): 7-8 hours

Day 07: Chhatra Khola to Kothe (3,691m/12,109ft): 6-7 hours

Day 08:  Kothe to Thaknak (4,358m/14,297ft): 3-4 hours

Day 09: Thaknak to Khare (5,045m/16,486ft): 2-3 hours

Day 10: Khare: Acclimatization and pre–climb training

Day 11: Khare to Mera High Camp (5,780m/18,958ft): 6-7 hours

Day 12: Mera High Camp to Summit (6,461m/21,1907ft) and back to Khare (5045m/16,547ft): 8-9 hours

Day 13: Reserve Day for Contingency

Day 14: Khare to Kothe (3600m/11808ft): 4-5 hours

Day 15: Kothe to Thuli Kharka (4,300 m/14,107ft): 5-6 hours

Day 16: Thuli Kharla to Lukla via Zatrwa La pass: 6-7 hours

Day 17: Fly to Kathmandu

Day 18: Final departure

Not really satisfied with this itinerary ? Make your own

Accommodations

We will be staying in Hotel Moonlight, a 3-star hotel in Kathmandu, standard teahouses during trekking and tents when climbing which are all included in the cost. Most teahouse accommodations will only have shared toilet facilities. For tent accommodation, foam mattress will be made available. In climbing section, toilet facilities will be provided with necessary natural preservation. All accommodations in Kathmandu and in teahouses are on a twin-shared basis whereas a single tent will be provided to each individual for the climbing section. We can also request for a single room in Kathmandu by paying a single supplement of USD 350. However, there are several teahouses on the trekking route that do not allow single room accommodation. On paying a single supplement, you will get a single room in Kathmandu but sometimes it is feasible only in the trekking areas of the lower elevations.

Meals

During our Mera Peak climbing trip, we can enjoy Nepalese, Tibetan, Indian and the more common continental cuisines. A buffet-style breakfast will be provided from our hotel in Kathmandu. All meals including breakfast, lunch and dinner will be available during the trekking and climbing sections. Welcome and farewell dinners are also something to look forward to.

Team Composition

Trekking : While trekking, we will provide you a fully trained, English speaking, experienced trekking guide. Every 4 members are entitled to 1 assistant guide, also 1 porter for every two members to carry the luggage.

Climbing : We will provide you a licensed, English speaking, veteran climbing guide. There is also the provision of assistant guides, for a group size of 2-4 people; there will be 1 main guide and 1 assistant guide. In a group size of 5-8 people, there will be 1 main guide and 2 assistant guides. Finally with a group of 9-12 people, we shall be offering you 1 main guide and 3 assistant guides. Other staff members will include one experienced cook and necessary Sherpa staff, mostly assistants who will assist in setting up camps during the climb.

This arrangement of staff will ensure the safety of each and every member in the group; also if any member falls ill, the trip will still go ahead as planned. Please also note that the maximum number of people in a group will be 12, as this is the optimum size for a successful trip.

Physical Condition & Experience Requirements

The difficulty for Mera Peak climbing is rated 2B. This means that the technical requirement is very basic and includes use of ropes, ice axe and crampons. You are also required to have good cardio-vascular fitness. Mera Peak is not categorized as a technical peak but a bit of technical knowledge would be beneficial for a small section of the climb which is about 50m. This will probably be the toughest part of the climb as the slope is around 40 degrees of ice/snow. Previous experience with using ice axe and crampons is preferred, although not mandatory because a basic ice-climbing training will be provided before the summit. Lots of willpower, the ability to tolerate harsh conditions, reasonable fitness and good health will help in making this trip successful. It is important that participants with pre-existing medical problems or conditions make these known to Himalayan Glacier at the time of booking.

Best Time to Travel

The best time of the year to summit Mera Peak is Spring (March to May) and Autumn (September to November). The best months has been defined on the basis of visibility and weather condition.

Trip Start Dates and Cost

Check available trip start dates and cost for Mera Peak Climbing. Please contact us for your customized departure date.

Outline Itinerary

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Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu (1,300m/4,264ft)

We complete our custom formalities at the Tribhuwan International Airport in Kathmandu. Afterwards, there is a Himalayan Glacier representative waiting for us at the gate who will take us to our hotel.  We can then spend the rest of the day taking a rest. In the evening, we get to try Nepalese cuisine at a welcome dinner hosted by Himalayan Glacier. Overnight in Kathmandu.

Included meals:Dinner

Day 02: Kathmandu: trip preparation

We rest for most of the day and unpack. We visit Himalayan Glacier’s office in the afternoon. Our climbing leaders will check our set of climbing equipment to make sure that they are in good condition for our coming journey. We also get introduced to fellow participants, and discuss our trip. Overnight in Kathmandu.

Included meals:Breakfast

Day 03: Fly to Lukla, trek to Paiya (Chutok) (2,730m/8,956ft): 40 mins flight, 5-6 hours trek

We catch an early morning flight to Lukla and begin our trek to Paiya after landing at the Tenzing-Hillary airport in Lukla. We walk on a jungle trail, cross a bridge over the Handi Khola and reach Surke Village. From here we continue moving south and cross the Chutok La pass before reaching the small settlement of Paiyan, also known as Chutok. Overnight in Paiya.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 04: Paiya to Panggom (2,846m/9,337ft): 5-6 hours

We descend for a while and reach a small bridge. From here the trail is slippery until we cross the Kari La pass. We walk through rhododendron and bamboo forests on a narrow mountain trail. On today’s trip we also get to be in awe of the Dudhkoshi Valley. We continue our trek to Panggom Village whose settlers are dependent on farming and trading. Overnight in Panggom.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 05: Panggom to Ningsow (2,863m/9,393ft): 4-5 hours

We begin our trek after breakfast. After trekking out of Panggom, we cross the Panggom La pass. Then we ascend, walk on a steady path and turn north. We cross Peseng Kharka Khola first then after walking for sometime, reach Peeng Kharka Danda. We cross Ningsow Khola (stream) before reaching the Ningsow Village. Overnight in Ningsow.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 06: Ningsow to Chhatra Khola (2,800m/9,186ft): 7-8 hours

From Ningsow, we climb first then descend for a while and climb some more to reach Ramailo Danda. From here we get extraordinary views of Mera Peak and Salpa. After ascending and descending on our trail, we enter the Makalu Barun National Park. Our trail from here to Chhatra Khola is called Pasang Lhamu trail. On the way, if we are lucky, we might even come across the elusive Red Panda. Overnight in Chhatra Khola.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 07: Chhatra Khola to Kothe (3,691m/12,109ft): 6-7 hours

We walk towards the north on the main trail to Mera Peak. After walking on a trail next to the the Majang Khola, we merge with another trail which moves alongside the Hinku Khola. Our trail moves straight ahead towards Tashing Ongma which has seasonal tea shops. We continue our trek and cross the bridge over the Sanu Khola before reaching Kothe. Overnight in Kothe.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 08:  Kothe to Thaknak (4,358m/14,297ft): 3-4 hours

We trek along the ridge of the Hinku Khola in the shadow of Mera Peak. We take lunch at Gondishung, the summer herders' settlement in the west bank of the Hinku Drangka. Beyond Gondishung, we pass a 200-year-old Lungsumgba Gompa where we can find Mera Peak scripted in rock along with its route to reach Mera. A short walk takes us to Thaknak, which is a summer grazing area with primitive lodges and shops. Overnight in Thaknak.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 09: Thaknak to Khare (5,045m/16,486ft): 2-3 hours

Leaving Thaknak, we follow the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka, which offers spectacular views of Charpate Himal. The trail climbs through moraines to the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar glaciers, and then climbs more steeply to Khare. From here, we can see the northern face of Mera Peak which will be an amazing experience. After lunch we can hike in and around Khare. Overnight at Khare.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 10: Khare: Acclimatization and pre–climb training

We have a separate day set aside solely for acclimatization and basic training just to prepare ourselves better for the Mera Peak climb. Our climbing leader will help us polish our basic climbing techniques and demonstrate the best ways to use our climbing gears like the ice axe, harness, ascender climbing boots and crampons. The training will also include learning the best climbing technique with the rope. Overnight in Khare.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 11: Khare to Mera High Camp (5,780m/18,958ft): 6-7 hours

We walk through a boulder-strewn course on a steep trail to reach the Mera Peak Base Camp. From here, we continue further through the Mera La pass to reach the Mera High Camp. Our path is along a rocky trail, which can be hazardous if it has recently snowed, as there are a number of crevasses here. We make our way to the top of the rock band, which is marked by a large cairn. Then we set up a high camp while enjoying excellent views of Mt. Everest, Makalu, Cho Oyu, the south face of Lhotse, Nuptse, Chamlang and Baruntse. Overnight at Mera High Camp.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 12: Mera High Camp to Summit (6,461m/21,1907ft) and back to Khare (5045m/16,547ft): 8-9 hours

This is a really important day for the expedition. We wake up around 2 in the morning for breakfast. It’s going to be very cold in the beginning but soon we warm up as we continue up the glacier and onto a peculiar ridge. The first rays of the sun hit the big peaks in an amazing red glow. The route is still non-technical as we slowly climb higher into the ever-thinning air. The slope steepens for a section behind the ridge and the summit comes back into view. At the foot of the final steep summit cone, we may use a fixed rope if the climbing leader believes it’s required. The summit is only a few meters away. From the summit, we take in spectacular views of the mighty Himalayas including Mt. Everest (8,848m), Cho-Oyu (8,210m), Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,463m), Kangchenjunga (8,586m), Nuptse (7,855m), Chamlang (7,319m), Baruntse (7 ,129m) and others. Later, we retrace our steps back to the high camp where we rest for a while before descending to Khare. Overnight in Khare.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 13: Reserve Day for Contingency

There is no guarantee that we will have favorable weather on our planned day for the summit. Therefore, this day is set aside as a contingency in case we are unable to summit the Mera on the desired day due to bad weather conditions or any other unanticipated reason. However, if the trip goes smoothly, this day will not be required.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 14: Khare to Kothe (3600m/11808ft): 4-5 hours

We trek from Khare to Kothe along the same trail used previously. After reaching Kothe, we celebrate our success by trying out local delicacies and wines. Overnight in Kothe.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 15: Kothe to Thuli Kharka (4,300 m/14,107ft): 5-6 hours

We begin our trek to Thuli Kharka after breakfast. We climb up and descend, cross several tributaries of the Inkhu Khola before reaching a forked trail nearby Taktho. We choose the trail on our right and continue walking. Our trail passes by a Chorten after which we walk downhill on a steep trail. Next, we ascend to Thuli Kharka and pass by another Chorten on the way. Overnight in Thuli Kharka.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 16: Thuli Kharla to Lukla via Zatrwa La pass: 6-7 hours

We cross the Zatrwa-La pass at 4,600. As soon as we cross the pass, we are welcomed by the sight of the beautiful Lukla Valley which is surrounded by Cho Oyu, Kongde Peak, Numbur Himal, Kusum Khangru and other Himalayan peaks. From Zatrwa La pass we walk all the way down to Chutang and then straight forward to the Lukla village. In the evening we enjoy dinner in the Himalayas of Nepal with our crew. Overnight in Lukla.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 17: Fly to Kathmandu

We catch an early morning flight to Kathmandu. After reaching Kathmandu, we can take a rest or do some souvenir shopping. If we want to explore any other areas of Kathmandu, we may do that today. Our guides can help you with both souvenir shopping or sightseeing. There will be a farewell dinner in the evening to celebrate the climbers’ successful summit of the Mera Peak. Overnight in Kathmandu.

Included meals:Breakfast Dinner

Day 18: Final departure

Our adventure in Nepal comes to an end today! There is nothing to do but trade emails with your travel companions and organize your photos. A representative from Himalayan Glacier will take you to the airport, approximately 3 hours before your scheduled flight. On your way home you'll have plenty of time to plan your next adventure in the wonderful country of Nepal.

Included meals:Breakfast Dinner

Not really satisfied with this itinerary ? Make your own

Important Note

Your safety is of paramount concern while traveling with Himalayan Glacier. Please note that your leader has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails travelling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Weather conditions, health condition of a group member, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. The leader will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if required.

Trip Facts

Included in the Cost

  • Airport pickups and drops in a private vehicle
  • 3-star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast
  • Teahouse accommodation during the trek
  • Tented accommodation during the climb
  • All meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner) during the trek and climb
  • Welcome and farewell dinners
  • All ground transportation on a comfortable private vehicle as per the itinerary
  • Domestic flights (Kathmandu- Lukla -Kathmandu)
  • English speaking, trained and experienced trekking guide(leader), climbing guide (leader) and assistant guides
  • Porter service (2 trekkers: 1 porter)
  • Staff costs including their salary, insurance, equipment, domestic airfare, food and accommodation
  • Down jacket  (to be returned after trip completion)
  • Himalayan Glacier’s trekking bag/duffel bag, t-shirt and trekking map are yours to take
  • All necessary paper work; trekking permits and Mera Peak climbing permit
  • Good quality tents and kitchen utensils for camping
  • Group mountaineering (climbing) equipments
  • Medical kit (carried by your guide)
  • All government and local taxes

Not Included in the Cost

  • Nepalese visa fee
  • International airfare to and from Kathmandu
  • Excess baggage charges (if you have more than 15 kg of luggage, a cargo charge is around $1.5 per kg)
  • Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure, early return from mountain (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary
  • Altitude chamber (PAC) or oxygen
  • Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu (and also in the case of early return from the mountain than the scheduled itinerary)
  • Travel and rescue insurance
  • Personal expenses (phone calls, internet,  laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, extra porters, bottle or boiled water, shower, etc.)
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • Personal climbing guide if requested
  • Optional trips and sightseeing if extended
  • Tips for guides and porters

Accommodations

We will be staying in Hotel Moonlight, a 3-star hotel in Kathmandu, standard teahouses during trekking and tents when climbing which are all included in the cost. Most teahouse accommodations will only have shared toilet facilities. For tent accommodation, foam mattress will be made available. In climbing section, toilet facilities will be provided with necessary natural preservation. All accommodations in Kathmandu and in teahouses are on a twin-shared basis whereas a single tent will be provided to each individual for the climbing section. We can also request for a single room in Kathmandu by paying a single supplement of USD 350. However, there are several teahouses on the trekking route that do not allow single room accommodation. On paying a single supplement, you will get a single room in Kathmandu but sometimes it is feasible only in the trekking areas of the lower elevations.

Meals

During our Mera Peak climbing trip, we can enjoy Nepalese, Tibetan, Indian and the more common continental cuisines. A buffet-style breakfast will be provided from our hotel in Kathmandu. All meals including breakfast, lunch and dinner will be available during the trekking and climbing sections. Welcome and farewell dinners are also something to look forward to.

 

Trip Introduction

Mera Peak Climbing takes us to the summit of Mera Peak (6,461m/21,190ft) which is the highest trekking peak in Nepal. We ascend Mera Peak preferably during the spring and autumn seasons as it’s the best time to climb the mountain for its astonishing views of the Himalayan Vista. Five 8,000m peaks are visible from the summit including Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu and Kanchenjunga.

Himalayan Glacier organized its first climbing trip to Mera Peak in 1992. Our Mera Peak Itinerary is carefully designed with steady ascent and a separate day set aside in Khare to allow plenty of time for acclimatization. The usual route to Mera Peak is directly via the Zatra La Pass, but we follow the route that heads south from Lukla and up the beautiful Hinku Valley and later return via Zatra La pass. Following this route has a few advantages. We not only pass through the beautiful Nepalese wilderness but also through quaint villages which will give us a glimpse into the rich culture of the locals. Additionally, since the route is longer, it’s better for acclimatization.

Mera Peak climbing is an excellent option for anyone with moderate mountaineering experience. It is a challenging trekking peak due to its elevation, but the technical mountaineering skills requirement is very basic. Besides, Himalayan Glacier’s seasoned Sherpa guide will provide us with a basic mountaineering training before the actual summit.

Route Map

Route maps are just representation of the trekking routes. This does not represent the exact geographical conditions.Click here for Mera Peak Climbing route map

Day to Day Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu (1,300m/4,264ft)

We complete our custom formalities at the Tribhuwan International Airport in Kathmandu. Afterwards, there is a Himalayan Glacier representative waiting for us at the gate who will take us to our hotel.  We can then spend the rest of the day taking a rest. In the evening, we get to try Nepalese cuisine at a welcome dinner hosted by Himalayan Glacier. Overnight in Kathmandu.

Included meals:Dinner

Day 02: Kathmandu: trip preparation

We rest for most of the day and unpack. We visit Himalayan Glacier’s office in the afternoon. Our climbing leaders will check our set of climbing equipment to make sure that they are in good condition for our coming journey. We also get introduced to fellow participants, and discuss our trip. Overnight in Kathmandu.

Included meals:Breakfast

Day 03: Fly to Lukla, trek to Paiya (Chutok) (2,730m/8,956ft): 40 mins flight, 5-6 hours trek

We catch an early morning flight to Lukla and begin our trek to Paiya after landing at the Tenzing-Hillary airport in Lukla. We walk on a jungle trail, cross a bridge over the Handi Khola and reach Surke Village. From here we continue moving south and cross the Chutok La pass before reaching the small settlement of Paiyan, also known as Chutok. Overnight in Paiya.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 04: Paiya to Panggom (2,846m/9,337ft): 5-6 hours

We descend for a while and reach a small bridge. From here the trail is slippery until we cross the Kari La pass. We walk through rhododendron and bamboo forests on a narrow mountain trail. On today’s trip we also get to be in awe of the Dudhkoshi Valley. We continue our trek to Panggom Village whose settlers are dependent on farming and trading. Overnight in Panggom.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 05: Panggom to Ningsow (2,863m/9,393ft): 4-5 hours

We begin our trek after breakfast. After trekking out of Panggom, we cross the Panggom La pass. Then we ascend, walk on a steady path and turn north. We cross Peseng Kharka Khola first then after walking for sometime, reach Peeng Kharka Danda. We cross Ningsow Khola (stream) before reaching the Ningsow Village. Overnight in Ningsow.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 06: Ningsow to Chhatra Khola (2,800m/9,186ft): 7-8 hours

From Ningsow, we climb first then descend for a while and climb some more to reach Ramailo Danda. From here we get extraordinary views of Mera Peak and Salpa. After ascending and descending on our trail, we enter the Makalu Barun National Park. Our trail from here to Chhatra Khola is called Pasang Lhamu trail. On the way, if we are lucky, we might even come across the elusive Red Panda. Overnight in Chhatra Khola.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 07: Chhatra Khola to Kothe (3,691m/12,109ft): 6-7 hours

We walk towards the north on the main trail to Mera Peak. After walking on a trail next to the the Majang Khola, we merge with another trail which moves alongside the Hinku Khola. Our trail moves straight ahead towards Tashing Ongma which has seasonal tea shops. We continue our trek and cross the bridge over the Sanu Khola before reaching Kothe. Overnight in Kothe.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 08:  Kothe to Thaknak (4,358m/14,297ft): 3-4 hours

We trek along the ridge of the Hinku Khola in the shadow of Mera Peak. We take lunch at Gondishung, the summer herders' settlement in the west bank of the Hinku Drangka. Beyond Gondishung, we pass a 200-year-old Lungsumgba Gompa where we can find Mera Peak scripted in rock along with its route to reach Mera. A short walk takes us to Thaknak, which is a summer grazing area with primitive lodges and shops. Overnight in Thaknak.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 09: Thaknak to Khare (5,045m/16,486ft): 2-3 hours

Leaving Thaknak, we follow the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka, which offers spectacular views of Charpate Himal. The trail climbs through moraines to the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar glaciers, and then climbs more steeply to Khare. From here, we can see the northern face of Mera Peak which will be an amazing experience. After lunch we can hike in and around Khare. Overnight at Khare.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 10: Khare: Acclimatization and pre–climb training

We have a separate day set aside solely for acclimatization and basic training just to prepare ourselves better for the Mera Peak climb. Our climbing leader will help us polish our basic climbing techniques and demonstrate the best ways to use our climbing gears like the ice axe, harness, ascender climbing boots and crampons. The training will also include learning the best climbing technique with the rope. Overnight in Khare.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 11: Khare to Mera High Camp (5,780m/18,958ft): 6-7 hours

We walk through a boulder-strewn course on a steep trail to reach the Mera Peak Base Camp. From here, we continue further through the Mera La pass to reach the Mera High Camp. Our path is along a rocky trail, which can be hazardous if it has recently snowed, as there are a number of crevasses here. We make our way to the top of the rock band, which is marked by a large cairn. Then we set up a high camp while enjoying excellent views of Mt. Everest, Makalu, Cho Oyu, the south face of Lhotse, Nuptse, Chamlang and Baruntse. Overnight at Mera High Camp.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 12: Mera High Camp to Summit (6,461m/21,1907ft) and back to Khare (5045m/16,547ft): 8-9 hours

This is a really important day for the expedition. We wake up around 2 in the morning for breakfast. It’s going to be very cold in the beginning but soon we warm up as we continue up the glacier and onto a peculiar ridge. The first rays of the sun hit the big peaks in an amazing red glow. The route is still non-technical as we slowly climb higher into the ever-thinning air. The slope steepens for a section behind the ridge and the summit comes back into view. At the foot of the final steep summit cone, we may use a fixed rope if the climbing leader believes it’s required. The summit is only a few meters away. From the summit, we take in spectacular views of the mighty Himalayas including Mt. Everest (8,848m), Cho-Oyu (8,210m), Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,463m), Kangchenjunga (8,586m), Nuptse (7,855m), Chamlang (7,319m), Baruntse (7 ,129m) and others. Later, we retrace our steps back to the high camp where we rest for a while before descending to Khare. Overnight in Khare.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 13: Reserve Day for Contingency

There is no guarantee that we will have favorable weather on our planned day for the summit. Therefore, this day is set aside as a contingency in case we are unable to summit the Mera on the desired day due to bad weather conditions or any other unanticipated reason. However, if the trip goes smoothly, this day will not be required.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 14: Khare to Kothe (3600m/11808ft): 4-5 hours

We trek from Khare to Kothe along the same trail used previously. After reaching Kothe, we celebrate our success by trying out local delicacies and wines. Overnight in Kothe.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 15: Kothe to Thuli Kharka (4,300 m/14,107ft): 5-6 hours

We begin our trek to Thuli Kharka after breakfast. We climb up and descend, cross several tributaries of the Inkhu Khola before reaching a forked trail nearby Taktho. We choose the trail on our right and continue walking. Our trail passes by a Chorten after which we walk downhill on a steep trail. Next, we ascend to Thuli Kharka and pass by another Chorten on the way. Overnight in Thuli Kharka.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 16: Thuli Kharla to Lukla via Zatrwa La pass: 6-7 hours

We cross the Zatrwa-La pass at 4,600. As soon as we cross the pass, we are welcomed by the sight of the beautiful Lukla Valley which is surrounded by Cho Oyu, Kongde Peak, Numbur Himal, Kusum Khangru and other Himalayan peaks. From Zatrwa La pass we walk all the way down to Chutang and then straight forward to the Lukla village. In the evening we enjoy dinner in the Himalayas of Nepal with our crew. Overnight in Lukla.

Included meals:Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Day 17: Fly to Kathmandu

We catch an early morning flight to Kathmandu. After reaching Kathmandu, we can take a rest or do some souvenir shopping. If we want to explore any other areas of Kathmandu, we may do that today. Our guides can help you with both souvenir shopping or sightseeing. There will be a farewell dinner in the evening to celebrate the climbers’ successful summit of the Mera Peak. Overnight in Kathmandu.

Included meals:Breakfast Dinner

Day 18: Final departure

Our adventure in Nepal comes to an end today! There is nothing to do but trade emails with your travel companions and organize your photos. A representative from Himalayan Glacier will take you to the airport, approximately 3 hours before your scheduled flight. On your way home you'll have plenty of time to plan your next adventure in the wonderful country of Nepal.

Included meals:Breakfast Dinner

Important Note

Your safety is of paramount concern while traveling with Himalayan Glacier. Please note that your leader has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails travelling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Weather conditions, health condition of a group member, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. The leader will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if required.

Included in the Cost

  • Airport pickups and drops in a private vehicle
  • 3-star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast
  • Teahouse accommodation during the trek
  • Tented accommodation during the climb
  • All meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner) during the trek and climb
  • Welcome and farewell dinners
  • All ground transportation on a comfortable private vehicle as per the itinerary
  • Domestic flights (Kathmandu- Lukla -Kathmandu)
  • English speaking, trained and experienced trekking guide(leader), climbing guide (leader) and assistant guides
  • Porter service (2 trekkers: 1 porter)
  • Staff costs including their salary, insurance, equipment, domestic airfare, food and accommodation
  • Down jacket  (to be returned after trip completion)
  • Himalayan Glacier’s trekking bag/duffel bag, t-shirt and trekking map are yours to take
  • All necessary paper work; trekking permits and Mera Peak climbing permit
  • Good quality tents and kitchen utensils for camping
  • Group mountaineering (climbing) equipments
  • Medical kit (carried by your guide)
  • All government and local taxes

Not Included in the Cost

  • Nepalese visa fee
  • International airfare to and from Kathmandu
  • Excess baggage charges (if you have more than 15 kg of luggage, a cargo charge is around $1.5 per kg)
  • Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure, early return from mountain (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary
  • Altitude chamber (PAC) or oxygen
  • Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu (and also in the case of early return from the mountain than the scheduled itinerary)
  • Travel and rescue insurance
  • Personal expenses (phone calls, internet,  laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, extra porters, bottle or boiled water, shower, etc.)
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • Personal climbing guide if requested
  • Optional trips and sightseeing if extended
  • Tips for guides and porters

Accommodations

We will be staying in Hotel Moonlight, a 3-star hotel in Kathmandu, standard teahouses during trekking and tents when climbing which are all included in the cost. Most teahouse accommodations will only have shared toilet facilities. For tent accommodation, foam mattress will be made available. In climbing section, toilet facilities will be provided with necessary natural preservation. All accommodations in Kathmandu and in teahouses are on a twin-shared basis whereas a single tent will be provided to each individual for the climbing section. We can also request for a single room in Kathmandu by paying a single supplement of USD 350. However, there are several teahouses on the trekking route that do not allow single room accommodation. On paying a single supplement, you will get a single room in Kathmandu but sometimes it is feasible only in the trekking areas of the lower elevations.

Meals

During our Mera Peak climbing trip, we can enjoy Nepalese, Tibetan, Indian and the more common continental cuisines. A buffet-style breakfast will be provided from our hotel in Kathmandu. All meals including breakfast, lunch and dinner will be available during the trekking and climbing sections. Welcome and farewell dinners are also something to look forward to.

Team Composition

Trekking : While trekking, we will provide you a fully trained, English speaking, experienced trekking guide. Every 4 members are entitled to 1 assistant guide, also 1 porter for every two members to carry the luggage.

Climbing : We will provide you a licensed, English speaking, veteran climbing guide. There is also the provision of assistant guides, for a group size of 2-4 people; there will be 1 main guide and 1 assistant guide. In a group size of 5-8 people, there will be 1 main guide and 2 assistant guides. Finally with a group of 9-12 people, we shall be offering you 1 main guide and 3 assistant guides. Other staff members will include one experienced cook and necessary Sherpa staff, mostly assistants who will assist in setting up camps during the climb.

This arrangement of staff will ensure the safety of each and every member in the group; also if any member falls ill, the trip will still go ahead as planned. Please also note that the maximum number of people in a group will be 12, as this is the optimum size for a successful trip.

Leader(s) & Staff Arrangements

The most significant thing that makes your Mera Peak Climbing trip successful, enjoyable and memorable is the skilled, experienced, courteous and helpful trek and climb leader and the crew members who have ability of operating your days in the mountain smoothly. Your trip will be led by the best and most professional leaders. All of our trekking/climbing leaders are carefully selected on the basis of their appropriate experience, leadership skills and personal aptitude. With an objective of sustaining local communities Himalayan Glacier Trekking employs Nepalese staff members who have proficient knowledge about culture, ecosystem, flora, fauna, geography, and history of Nepal. Trek/climb leaders of HGT are also trained with following trainings to educate them on potential medical issues during their trek, biodiversity and environmental issues, English language, etc:

  • Intensive Wilderness First Aid - KEEP (Kathmandu Environmental Educational Project)
  • Trekking Guide Training - Nepal Government's Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation department of Hotel Management and Tourism Training Centre of Nepal.
  • Eco Trekking Workshop & Adventure Meet - TAAN (Trekking Agents Association Of Nepal)
  • English Language - KEEP
  • Conservation and Biodiversity - KEEP
  • Rock climbing, Ice Climbing and Mountaineering - Nepal Mountaineering Association

Porter Care:

Though often overlooked, it's no exaggeration to say the entire trekking and expedition industry in Nepal is built on the back of hard working local porters. It is their tireless efforts carrying supplies, equipment and baggage that make journeying to these remote areas possible. So it's very unfortunate that they have endured a history of exploitation and abuse at the hands of the industry. In an effort to combat this, we are firmly committed to porter rights. We ensure all our porters are well treated, well paid and we provide the level of shelter, clothing and footwear that these harsh environments demand. Porters who become sick are treated with the same care and attention as other team members and we have previously used helicopters - at our expense - to rescue porters from dangerous situations. We support the work of the International Porter Protection Group (IPPG), making our resources available to them to help improve the working conditions of the porters. (International Porters Progress Group)

Responsible Tourism Practice

Himalayan Region of Nepal is stunningly beautiful, but equally fragile. Future generations have just as much of right to appreciate it as we do. So, the tourism industry has an obligation to protect and preserve it. We employ a 'zero impact' policy on the natural environment.

Travel Insurance

It is a condition upon joining any of Himalayan Glacier's trips that all clients be insured for comprehensive expenses that might incur due to medical issues or accidents (this includes air ambulance, helicopter rescue, and treatment costs). Please note that we don't arrange or sell insurance.

Acclimatization

It is important to acclimatize to the high altitude in order to prevent Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) which can be fatal if one is not careful. Mild headaches, fever, loss of appetite or stomach disorder are symptoms of AMS. For a safe trekking and climbing experience, it is absolutely essential to allow sufficient time for acclimatization. The itinerary for Mera Peak Climbing moves forward in a steady pace so as to allow plenty of time for acclimatization. This along with a separate day set aside at Khare helps guests acclimatize to the high altitude.

Physical Condition & Experience Requirements

The difficulty for Mera Peak climbing is rated 2B. This means that the technical requirement is very basic and includes use of ropes, ice axe and crampons. You are also required to have good cardio-vascular fitness. Mera Peak is not categorized as a technical peak but a bit of technical knowledge would be beneficial for a small section of the climb which is about 50m. This will probably be the toughest part of the climb as the slope is around 40 degrees of ice/snow. Previous experience with using ice axe and crampons is preferred, although not mandatory because a basic ice-climbing training will be provided before the summit. Lots of willpower, the ability to tolerate harsh conditions, reasonable fitness and good health will help in making this trip successful. It is important that participants with pre-existing medical problems or conditions make these known to Himalayan Glacier at the time of booking.

Best Time to Travel

The best time of the year to summit Mera Peak is Spring (March to May) and Autumn (September to November). The best months has been defined on the basis of visibility and weather condition.

Equipments & Packing List

This list is a guideline to help you pack for trekking and peak climbing. Also, please understand that the items listed below will vary a little according to the season and the trek duration. Those items marked by an asterisk (*) are provided by Himalayan Glacier inclusive in the service. Remember that your luggage will be carried by your porter, but you are required to carry a daypack (with your valuables or anything important) on your own. We also suggest that you pack only what is necessary.

Important documents and items

  • Valid passport, 2 extra passport size photos, airline tickets
  • Separate photocopies of passport, visa form (easily obtained at Kathmandu airport), proof of insurance
  • Dollars in cash for purchasing Nepalese visa at Kathmandu airport
  • Credit cards, bank/ATM/cash machine cards for withdrawing funds from cash machines (bring a photocopy of your cards)

Personal Climbing Gears:

  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Harness
  • Tape slings (2)
  • Screwgate karabiners (2 lock, 2 unlock)
  • Descender/eight figure
  • Plastic mountaineering boots
  • Ascender/Jhumar
  • Helmet

Group Climbing Gears:

  • Snow bar*
  • Rope*
  • Ice hammer*
  • Ice screw*

Head

  • Bandana or head scarf, also useful for dusty conditions
  • Warm hat that covers your ears (wool or synthetic)
  • Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs
  • Sunglasses with UV protection
  • Prescription sunglasses (if required)

Upper Body

  • Polypropylene shirts (1 half sleeve and 2 long sleeves)
  • Light and expedition weight thermal tops
  • Fleece wind-stopper jacket or pullover
  • Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell jacket
  • Down vest and/or jacket *
  • Gore-Tex jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable

Hands

  • 1 pair of lightweight poly-liner gloves
  • 1 pair of lightweight wool or fleece gloves
  • 1 pair of mittens; consists of 1 Gore-Tex over mitt matched, waterproof, polar-fleece mitt liner

Lower Body

  • Non-cotton underwear briefs
  • 1 pair of hiking shorts
  • 1 pair of hiking trousers
  • 1 pair of lightweight thermal bottoms
  • 1 pair of fleece or woolen trousers
  • 1 pair of waterproof shell pants, breathable fabric

Feet

  • 2 pairs of thin, lightweight inner socks
  • 2 pairs of heavy poly or wool socks
  • 1 pair of hiking boots with spare laces (sturdy soles, water resistant, ankle support, “broken in”)
  • 1 pair of trainers or running shoes and/or sandals
  • Cotton socks
  • Gaiters

Sleeping

  • 1 sleeping bag 30 degree DC
  • Fleece sleeping bag liner

Rucksack and Travel Bags

  • 1 medium rucksack or 1 large duffel bag *
  • Daypack/backpack of 35 to 50 liters for carrying your valuables, should have good shoulder padding
  • Small padlocks for duffel-kit bags
  • 2 large waterproof rucksack covers (optional)

Medical

  • Small, personal first-aid kit (simple and light)
  • Aspirin, first-aid tape, and plasters (Band-Aids)
  • 1 skin-blister repair kit
  • Anti-diarrhea pills
  • Anti-headache pills
  • Cough and/or cold medicine
  • Anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox or Acetylzolamide
  • Stomach antibiotic: Ciprofloxacin, etc. Note: Do not bring sleeping pills as they are a respiratory depressant!
  • Water purification tablets or water filter
  • 1 set of earplugs
  • Extra pair of prescription glasses, contact lens supplies

Practical Items

  • 1 small roll of repair tape, 1 sewing-repair kit
  • 1 cigarette lighter, 1 small box of matches
  • 1 compass or GPS(optional)
  • 1 alarm clock/watch
  • 1 digital camera with extra cards and batteries
  • Large Ziplocs
  • 2 water bottles (1 liter each)
  • 1 small folding knife
  • Binoculars (optional)
  • 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks

Toiletries

  • 1 medium-sized quick drying towel
  • Toothbrush/paste (preferably biodegradable)
  • Multi-purpose soap (preferably biodegradable)
  • Deodorants
  • Nail clippers
  • Face and body moisturizer
  • Female hygiene products
  • Small mirror

Personal Hygiene

  • Wet wipes (baby wipes)
  • Tissue /toilet roll
  • Anti-bacterial hand wash

Extras/Luxuries

  • Reading book
  • Trail map/guide book
  • Journal and pen
  • iPod
  • Travel game i.e. chess, backgammon, scrabble, playing cards (to help you pass the time at teahouses and/or camps)
  • 1 modest swim suit
  • Binoculars (optional)
  • Voltage converter (from 220 to 110 ampere)
  • Plug adapter (2 round pegs to 2 flat pegs)
  • Lightweight pillow case (in case your teahouses provide you with pillows) or use your own stuff as a pillow

Trip Start Dates and Cost

Check available trip start dates and cost for Mera Peak Climbing. Please contact us for your customized departure date.

Additional Information

Our website contains as much information as possible about this trip. However, if you wish to discuss any aspect of this trip or your suitability for it please contact us by email.

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Trip Notes

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